Yuletide in Malmo

Sweden’s third largest city is, I’m happy to say, developing nicely into a minibreak destination in its own right, rather than forever being included as a mere appendage to a Copenhagen break. Yes – you can still cross over as a day tripper but there’s enough to occupy a visitor for a few days at least (and it’s cheaper!). Of course there’s nothing like a city all dressed up for Christmas, so those of you in search of festive cheer will really love the place in December…

Gamla Staden, Malmö’s Old Town, offers up a warren of cobblestone and half-timbered houses….

Stortorget, the main town square, dates back to 1540 and is surrounded by historical buildings including the Rådhus (Town Hall) and Governor’s Residence. King Karl X Gustav, upon his trusty steed, holds pride of place here – it was he who forced the Danes, who controlled Malmo, to hand it over to Sweden in 1568.

Just off Stortorget, Lilla Torg is small but packed with restaurants, shops and galleries…

14th century Gothic St. Petri Kyrka (St. Peter’s Church) is one of the oldest buildings in the city. Many of its medieval frescoes were destroyed during the religious wars of the 16th century but a few have been successfully restored.

Malmöhus Slott is the oldest preserved Renaissance castle in Scandinavia. It was built on the ruins of a fort and completed in 1542. Today, it hosts several museums.

While you’re there, you will definitely enjoy a stroll through Slottsträdgården (Castle Garden)

Malmo has an intricate network of waterways and canals, running through and beneath the city. Historically, they played an important role in the city’s fortifications until they were repurposed for leisure activities in the 1800’s

The Möllevången neighbourhood (known locally as Möllan) has a diverse population, reflected in the fruit and veg market and the eclectic mix of shops and restaurants.

The revitalised Västra Hamnen port area is a lovely spot for a coffee or beer. You can’t miss the Turning Torso -the residential 54 storey skyscraper – twisting skywards through 90 degrees.

Ribersborgsstranden (known as ‘Ribban’) is a 1.5-kilometre stretch of city beach just 10 minutes from the Old Town. You might like the sauna at the historic Kallbadhus (open-air cold bath house) on the pier and the hardier among you will definitely opt to then cool off in the sea itself. The ‘cooling section’ here is for nude bathers ( separate sections for men and women).

And then of course, there’s the famous Bridge itself! This massive engineering project (rising to iconic status thanks to TV series The Bridge) comprises an 8km double railway track and four lane roadway which, along with a stretch of tunnel, links the cities of Copenhagen to Malmo.

The tunnel section was made necessary because, on the Danish side, any bridge high enough to allow large ships pass through the strait would pose a threat to air traffic at the nearby airport. A 4km long artificial island (Peberholm) was constructed with material dredged from the seabed and the island connects the bridge to a 4km concrete tunnel running into Copenhagen. The island, in turn, has become an unpopulated nature reserve.

The Bridge from Malmo…..

The Bridge and Peberholm

Courtesy, Wikimedia

December in Malmo

The city streets and squares are beautifully lit and decorated. The shopping streets and malls offer up Swedish brands that you won’t necessarily come across anywhere else. On our visit at the end of November, the traditional Christmas Market had just opened in Gustav Square. It was much smaller than those of Germany, Copenhagen etc. and, while the handmade goods were lovely, they were also a tad expensive so we didn’t buy anything at all ( apart from glogg of course!). There’s a lovely craft centre on Lilla Torg and we picked up a few bits in the stores.

There are other markets and shopping events advertised for December – mostly on weekends – both in Malmo itself and in nearby villages and towns.

Getting There..

The closest airport is Copenhagen – a mere 23kms away. You can catch a train directly from Copenhagen Airport to Malmo Central every 20 minutes or so, the journey taking 30- 40 minutes. And, as the train crosses the famous Oresund Bridge, that’s another thing off the Bucket List! (circa €17 single).

Getting Around

This is not a huge city. If based in the centre, you can reach the main attractions by foot. Alternatively, you can cycle some of the 515kms of flat cycle paths! There’s a good bus network if you’re not in the mood for either!

Where we Stayed

We were late making plans so didn’t have the full range of choice (I seem to say that a lot!!). We wanted a hotel, walking distance from the train station, serving breakfast.

The Best Western Plus Hotel Nobel House (€106 double, per night, including breakfast) was a 10 minute walk from the station. We arrived just before midday and were offered our rooms immediately. The breakfast is very good and the bar is popular for a nightcap. It’s just around the corner from the canal and Lilla Torg so there are plenty of restaurants nearby if you’ve done too much walking during the day! I’d definitely stay there again.

Tip – Ask for a quiet room – there’s an Irish Bar next door which might keep you awake (unless you’re inside it of course!!)

Eating and Drinking

There was a time we Irish used to balk at Scandinavian prices but, now alas, we find food and drink to be almost on a par with home. Typically, we paid €8-10 for beers and wine. Main courses averaged €24 for pastas and chicken. Coffees €3-4.

We visited over a weekend and had made no reservations. Restaurants close to the hotel were busy both nights from 7.00 -9.00ish especially. While we couldn’t get seating indoors, we were always offered a table in the patio section. With heaters and blankets we were actually cosy enough and none of the four of us came home with head colds or snuffles!!

I don’t think we got a bad dish between us. We had to have meatballs for lunch as soon as we got rid of the bags – just to get us in the mood! Over the next 48 hours we enjoyed seafood, chicken, pastas and steaks (Lingonberry jam with everything, please!!!) We snacked on cinnamon buns and Lussekatter – St Lucia S-Shaped buns – excelling in the Swedish art of Fika (sitting around having coffee and buns with pals – no problem!!)

What I Loved…

Crossing the Bridge!

How easy it was to get there.

We could walk everywhere.

Everyone we came across in retail and service industry was welcoming and friendly.

Many of our main course dishes were served with fresh vegetables – more and more of a rarity nowadays.

What I Didn’t Love…

There was only the one small Christmas Market up and running (Nov 30th) – but that’s our own fault!!!

Couldn’t find a Free Walking Tour.

What Surprised Me…

The number (and size) of the city’s green spaces.

Several stores in the city centre do not accept cash… be warned!