The best of Kerry – (3) Slea Head

 

Maybe I’m a bit biased but I’m prepared to declare Slea Head Loop as not only one of the best scenic drives in Ireland,  but in the WORLD!    National Geographic got it right when they declared the Dingle Peninsula ‘the most beautiful place on earth’ some years back.  This short Drive – just 30 miles (50km) – is around the western tip of that peninsula and while it journeys through ancient sites,  coastal villages and Hollywood locations,  its really ALL about the landscape.  So its less about the stops and more about drinking in that scenery (although you will want to stop at every bend on the road!)

 

Our loop begins and finishes in the colourful fishing port of Dingle.  Its very hard not to love this town.  Yes it can be busy – especially during the summer months – but it never loses its charm.  Its actually the largest urban settlement on the peninsula and full of pubs,  restaurants,  shops and accommodation options to suit every pocket.  Its a great place in which to spend a few days but don’t get too lazy – get out and about and explore this beautiful region.

DSC_5442

 

DSC_5412

 

Once you leave Dingle,  the rest of the headland is made up of scattered houses and small villages and hamlets….. and a lot of sheep!   We’re very far west now – remember that the next parish is Boston!!

The first stop is at the little village of Ventry,  around 8km west of Dingle Town.   The sandy blue flag beach is about 3km long and perfect for a walk.  If the sun is shining then stay and enjoy the water or sit and read your book for a while.   (As with any part of Ireland,  and any time of year,  grab any good weather when you can!!)

20200803_124302

 

20200803_124932

 

IMG_20200803_124921

 

I’m serious about that weather!!  If the sun is shining get out of that car!!!  We spent 4 hours on the beach – a local shop supplied coffee and sandwiches so that was lunch sorted.

 

Moving on,  just enjoy the scenery….

IMG_20200803_153241

 

DSC_5458

 

DSC_5462

 

On a clear day you can see across to the Skelligs….

DSC_5493

 

There are several antiquity sites along the way.  You’ll come across a few settlements of BeeHive Huts or Clochans  built into the hillside.  These mysterious drystone igloos may be associated with religious practice but have not been dated.

DSC_5467

 

 

DSC_5474

 

The first sighting of the Blasket Islands….

DSC_5492

 

DSC_5518

 

Further along the road,  you come to the Upside-down Bridge!  The stream coming down from the hill crosses the road here.    Designed as a ford,  you just drive through .. its not deep….

DSC_5498

 

DSC_5497

 

Cashel Murphy is one of the best examples of a stone settlement in the country.  The Cashel was occupied until the 13th century AD by up to five families.

DSC_5515

 

DSC_5500

 

As you approach Slea Head the road narrows and traffic may build up (this is actually ok because you can enjoy the views)

DSC_5537

 

Slea Head itself is marked by a stone crucifixion scene.  There are a few parking spots (if you’re lucky) so hop out stretch the legs or sit on the wall for a few minutes and enjoy great views of the Blaskets and Dunmore Head

DSC_5546

 

The Blaskets

Ireland_-_Blasket_Islands

The most westerly point in Europe,  the now deserted Blaskets were inhabited from the mid 1500’s.   Numbers ebbed and flowed through the centuries.   In 1840,  there were about 150 residents but that number reduced to around 100 during the Famine.  The population increased again and the highest number recorded was 176 in 1916.   Unfortunately it wasn’t to last – continuous emigration reduced the numbers to 22 in 1953 when the last of the residents were finally evacuated to the mainland.

The islanders’ tough way of life has been documented in their stories – most famously the autobiography of the story-teller Peig Sayers, which we all studied at school.   The Islandman by Tomás Ó Criomhthain is a lament for a passing way of life and in Twenty Years A-Growing,  Muiris Ó Súilleabháín writes about leaving the island forever.

DSC_5532

 

Dunmore Head is most westerly point on mainland Ireland.    This is another good opportunity to stretch the legs.  A 2.6km path circles the headland.  You will be rewarded with (even more!) spectacular views.  Make sure to carry something for wind and rain.  Some StarWars scenes were shot here.

DSC_5547

 

Looking inland,  that gentle slope is the side of Mount Eagle.  This was the first bit of land that Charles Lindbergh saw after crossing the Atlantic en route to Paris in 1927.

DSC_5550

 

Tucked into the corner between Dunmore Head and Mount Eagle is the beautiful Coumeenoole Beach,  location for movies Ryans Daughter and Star Wars.  Its not good for swimming  but it makes up for that with fabulous views.

DSC_5555 (1)

 

Many of the empty homes you see on your drive were abandoned during the Great Famine.

DSC_5559

The scattered townland of Dunquin (Dun Chaoin) is one of the most well known locations on the route.   Farmers from the main Blasket Island would row across to the pier – on a calm day they could do it in 30 minutes.  Once there,  they’d dock their boat and hike 12 miles into Dingle to sell their produce.   Today,  the Blasket Islands ferry departs from here in season.

Not far from the pier is the Blasket Centre which offers insight into traditional island life through interactive displays, audiovisual presentations, etc.

198678944_3e568551b7_c(Dunquin Pier – Attributed)

 

Trivia Moment  :  Movie Locations on the Dingle Peninsula                                                      The rugged scenery was featured in the 1970 film Ryan’s Daughter.  In 1991, the dramatic coastline was used in Far and Away starring Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman.  Most recently,  Slea Head again featured in Star Wars Episode VIII: The Last Jedi

DSC_5564

 

Look across at the island aptly named the “Sleeping Giant

DSC_5568

 

DSC_5571

 

At Louis Mulcahy Pottery you might catch the artist at work or pick up a nice piece of craft to bring home.

20200803_164446

 

20200803_163948

 

At Clogher Strand you could have another walk or just admire the views of the beach and beyond to Ceann Sibéal and the Three Sisters.

DSC_5579

 

Fuchsia flourishes everywhere…

DSC_5587 (1)

 

Gallarus Oratory is one of Ireland’s best preserved early Christian churches.  As with other antiquities in the area,  historians have been unable to date the structure.  Its drystone walls are laid at a slight angle, lower on the outside than on the inside allowing rainwater to run off.  The entire structure is illuminated by a single window.  According to local legend,  if you can climb through the window your soul will be cleansed!.

A privately owned visitor centre offers a video about the site.

DSC_5595

 

DSC_5603

 

DSC_5598

 

The ruined 12th century Romanesque Church of Kilmalkedar is surrounded by a densely populated graveyard in which you’ll find medieval tombs, an early-Christian cross and and ogham stone.

Kilmakedar

 

The Three Sisters

DSC_5616

 

DSC_5621

 

According to Irish folklore, Brandon Creek is the location where St Brendan the Navigator began a journey to America (before Columbus or the Vikings!)

DSC_5632

 

The Drive now turns inland and runs along the base of Mount Brandon, the second highest mountain in Ireland.

DSC_5631

 

And you get back to Dingle for an evening of great food,  ceol agus craic!

DSC_5438

 

 

Small Stuff

 

Start and Finish – Dingle.

How much time – minimum 2 -3 hours but more if you intend doing walks…..

Following the Route – The Route is very well marked – You cannot get lost!

DSC_5634

Direction – Drive clockwise for the best views.

How to enjoy the Drive:

Yes its only 50km but make sure you’ve enough petrol before leaving Dingle – no one will thank you if you block the road at Slea Head!

Remember we drive on the LEFT hand side of the road!

I know I said you’d want to jump out at every bend in the road… please don’t!!!!  Wait for the designated parking spots.

If a lot of traffic builds up behind you,  just pull into the next free lay-by and let them pass (you will enjoy the scenery more if you can get rid of them and drive at your own pace).

There are a few narrow stretches of road,  especially around the Head.  Use the lay-bys to allow oncoming traffic pass by.

Allow enough time for your trip so that you don’t become frustrated with tailbacks and traffic jams…. you’ll get there sometime!

Be mindful of cyclists and walkers…..

….and animal herders!  Slow down and allow them pass with their sheep and cattle.

Cash – stock up on euro coins  – some of the attractions along the way (e.g. Beehives) charge €2 /€3 per person.   Others have honesty boxes close to the entrance.

LanguageThe Dingle Peninsula is an Irish speaking region and road signs can be confusing – these are the main towns on the route…

DSC_5584

Dingle – An Daingean

Ventry – Ceann Trá

Dunquin – Dun Chaoin

Ballyferriter – Baile an Fheirtéaraigh

 

Finally

Which is better – Slea Head or the Ring of Kerry?

This question is often asked by visitors trying to work out an itinerary.  While both peninsulas are beautiful,  I think that most people prefer Slea Head as its less busy.

but ….. seriously…..

WHY CHOOSE???!!!

Dingle_Peninsula_NASA_World_Wind(Dingle peninsula from Space Station)

 

 

 

 

 

 

24 thoughts on “The best of Kerry – (3) Slea Head

  1. Impossible task to choose, there are so many charming and sometimes timeless places in Ireland. The luck of today’s Irish people is to have had poor parents, who just kept what was there without building anything new. We enjoy it today.

      1. mmmm…. still… warm air, sunshine, al fresco dining (not under a rain umbrella), enjoying a glass of wine somewhere without having to buy a full meal!!….. maybe next year!!!!

  2. Of course you’re biased, and why wouldn’t you be, living in such a gorgeous place. I’m so glad the weather there is not warm and sunny otherwise you’d be over run by visitors, cars, motorbikes, noise and fumes. My husband fell in love with Dingle the first time we stopped for tea because the waitress brought him rich fruit cake smothered in creamy butter! He couldn’t get over it, couldn’t get enough of it and it became a staple in our house ever after.

    1. Everyone has great memories of Dingle for one reason or another… very few of us here at the moment would agree with you about the weather though!!! ⛈ 🌩 ☹️

  3. Great post and fantastic photos! We are just back from a road trip around the Dingle Peninsula. I was amazed by everything we had a chance to see and do and what stuck with me the most was a visit to the Blasket Island visitors center. Learning about the way people used go on about their daily lives, how they cherished every moment and overcame their hardships was a real eye opener. We didn’t get to visit the islands, but I would love to return one day. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 😀

    1. Delighted you’d a good trip. Most of my generation have mixed feelings about the Blaskets – we had to suffer the woes of Peig Sayers for Leaving Cert Irish and we haven’t forgiven her yet for writing that book!! I did get to the islands once – I spent a few weeks in the Irish College in Dun Chaoin and we had a day trip to An Blascaod Mór. Needless to say, as teenagers we were decidedly underwhelmed by a deserted island in the middle of nowhere!! Youth is wasted on the young!!!!

    1. I’d say there are quite a LOT of posts as half the country has visited Kerry this summer!!! But Kerry should definitely be on everyone’s list and well worthy of more than a day’s whirlwind visit ….XXXMarie

  4. Slea Head and Dingle were my favorite parts of a recent trip to Ireland and Northern Ireland. Coincidentally, it’s where my ancestors lived.

    1. mmmmmm…. me thinks you have a good Irish name if I’m not mistaken!!! It sounds as though you managed to fit a lot into your trip…

  5. Memories of several visits over the years. Ryan’s Daughter is one of my favourite-ever films. I recall visiting Kruger’s Bar in Dunquin, then owned by the Kerry football legend Paudi O’Sé and previously frequented by the cast and crew of Ryan’s Daughter. Great memories also of a long run through the lonely centre of the peninsula, out and back from Dingle town. Another great post Marie.

Leave a Reply