Everyone planning a travel itinerary for Ireland should include Derry. Northern Ireland’s second largest city has been very much overlooked by both domestic and international tourists but a visit here offers great insight into the region’s complex and turbulent history. Of course, there is much more than politics on offer here – the city has a name for culture and food as well as being a good base for exploring the northern coast.
Before we start…..
This is a travel blog. I write about places I visit and enjoy. In August, I walked around Derry and took my photos. It is only now, as I put the blog together, I find it a struggle to present the piece in language that is inclusive and avoids political debate.
FOR EXAMPLE
I’m sure I’ve already offended many with the title. So let’s get the name clarified ….
DERRY? LONDONDERRY? DERRY-LONDONDERRY?
The original name is DERRY. This comes from the Irish DOIRE meaning Oak Grove.
In 1613, King James 1 granted the city a royal charter and added LONDON to an anglicised Doire, creating LONDONDERRY
In simplistic terms, both names are in use today – nationalists use the name Derry and unionists call the city Londonderry. (so really, it comes down to whoever you are speaking to….)
DERRY – LONDONDERRY is considered by some as a compromise.
I’m sticking with Derry, if for no other reason that its the most convenient in its brevity!
A few definitions and explanations:
The Troubles
A common name for the Northern Ireland Conflict which lasted roughly from 1968 until the late 1990’s.
Bogside
A majority Catholic neighbourhood in Derry
Battle of the Bogside
12-14 August, 1969 – 3 days of rioting in the Bogside. British army were deployed on the 14th.
Bloody Sunday
30 January, 1972. British soldiers shot 26 unarmed civilians during a civil rights march. 14 of those died.
Operation Motorman
July 1972 – British Army operation to retake ‘no-go’ areas of the North
H-Block
This refers to a wing of the Maze Prison where paramilitary prisoners were housed during the Troubles.
Hunger Strike
In March 1981, Bobby Sands, the leader of the provisional IRA prisoners, began a hunger strike in the Maze. He died after 66 days. Another 9 hunger strikers died before the campaign was called off in October.
The Bogside Murals
Many of the buildings, and indeed the people, of the Troubles have moved on but the stories remain and are commemorated today in the street art of the neighbourhood.
The 12 Bogside murals, collectively called the ‘Peoples’ Gallery’, were created by brothers Tom and William Kelly and Kevin Hasson. The threesome has been working on the project since 1993, starting out with supplies donated by local residents.
THE PETROL BOMBER
Battle of the Bogside, August 1969. A young boy in a gas mask (to protect himself against CS gas) holding a petrol bomb made from a milk bottle. (This was painted in 1994, the year the peace talks began)
BERNADETTE
Bernadette McAliskey addressing the crowds in the Bogside. She was later elected to parliament at the age of 21.
BLOODY SUNDAY
A group of men, led by a local priest, carry the body of Jackie Duddy, the first fatality of the day
BLOODY SUNDAY COMMEMORATION
Portraits of the 14 people killed on Bloody Sunday.
The murals are accompanied by information plaques
DEATH OF INNOCENCE
14 year old Annette McGavigan killed in crossfire near her home in September 1971. She was the 100th victim and represents the 3000 people who died during the Troubles.
MOTHERS AND SISTERS
Peggy O Hara was the mother of hunger striker Patsy O Hara and Mickey Devine’s sister also features here. The little girl is pointing towards the Peace Mural on another building.
PEACE MURAL
The dove – a symbol of peace – emerges from an oak leaf ( a symbol of Derry). The squares are equal on all sides – representing the equality of all citizens. Overall, it represents a symbol of hope for the future.
OPERATION MOTORMAN
Summer 1972 – ‘Free Derry’ ended when the British army moved in to the area and removed the barricades.
THE SATURDAY MATINEE
There were many riots in the Bogside from 1969 through the early 70’s, often on Saturday afternoons.
CIVIL RIGHTS
Early marches were inspired by the campaigns of Martin Luther King and were peaceful demonstrations ….
THE RUNNER
A young boy running, after tear gas has been fired.
A TRIBUTE TO JOHN HUME
Hume cited Martin Luther King as the person who influenced him most. Mother Teresa was involved in the quest for peace in the North. Mandela’s campaigns ran parallel with the campaign in the North. All 4 won the Nobel Peace Prize.
A few things to note:
Several murals are painted in black and white – evocative of the newspaper photos of the day…
While these are works of art in themselves, the murals have layers of meaning. Have another look at DEATH OF INNOCENCE – notice the broken gun which symbolises the renouncement of violence. The roof beams on the destroyed building form the shape of a crucifix which, along with the butterfly, symbolises resurrection and hope in the Peace Process (at the time of painting, the butterfly was actually left unfinished because peace was not assured – it was completed later). This is one place on the planet where you should really, really consider taking a guided tour. You will be shown around the Bogside by a local – someone from the community who will share their personal history and stories with you. It is also possible at times to book tours with one of the artists.
The murals are mostly painted on the side walls of peoples homes. Such paintings in Northern Ireland are generally found on properties not actually owned by the residents themselves but owned by the Northern Ireland Housing Executive (NIHE). However, it is acknowledged that the murals are very closely tied with the community and central to the neighbourhood’s identity and would be impossible to remove without the consent of the residents.
It is easy to come away full of righteous indignation or indeed rage. Remember that the Bogside murals are linked to their geographical location and reflect the ideology of that particular community. They therefore represent only one side of the Northern Ireland conflict. If you visit the Bogside then make sure you also examine the unionist context and leave Derry with an informed and balanced perspective.
Troubles Tourism / Dark Tourism
These murals are considered a major tourist attraction in the city. All coach tours to the city now stop in the neighbourhood. The artists have been accused at times of glorifying teen violence and keeping wounds open. They refute such suggestions – seeing their works as historical documents that tell a story. They do not include an party-political or sectarian elements such as emblems or slogans in the murals and they emphasize their main objective as being the promotion of peace.
Also in the Bogside
YOU ARE NOW ENTERING FREE DERRY
Powerful words! This gable end was first painted by teenager John Caker Casey in 1969. The name ‘Free Derry’ was given to those areas barricaded off from the security forces from 1969 -72. The barricades were removed during Operation Motorman in July, 1972. The terrace of houses has been demolished but the mural lives on and has been frequently repainted – often reflecting current issues (note the Covid tribute to the NHS)
Museum of Free Derry
The museum was established by the Bloody Sunday Trust in 2006. In 2018, it attracted 35,000 visitors. State of the art audio-visual displays offer insight into the civil rights movement, Free Derry, Operation Motorman, etc. but the fact that the museum is mostly run by relatives of Bloody Sunday victims, who are happy to tell you their personal stories, is what makes this place special.
There are several monuments in the vicinity…
This monument in the shape of a ‘H’ commemorates those who died in the 1981 hunger strike.
Bloody Sunday Memorial
Maps and information boards…
Placards, recruitment posters and protest hoardings abound….
Other murals
The Bogside from the Walls of Derry
Great murals but such tragedy behind them
I love street art anyway but this was particularly impressive. The stories are harsh but there is hope in the artwork also I think. XXXMarie
Hi Marie … Am currently in Ireland and will be headed North for a few days. Glad to have come across your post. We were planning on doing the Black Cab tour in Belfast, but will show this to my group
That’s brilliant. The Black Cab tours are great so definitely do that if in Belfast. Derry is a little bit different – many consider the Troubles as starting off from there so it has its own story. If you’re based in Belfast, it’s about 90 minutes or so to Derry so manageable even as a day trip either by public transport or your own car. If you do think you’ll go, try and organise a guided tour of the murals. And then walk the walls – you just need a few hours in total… But if you don’t make it, you’re still going to get the story from the cab tour. Have a great time – let me know how you get on…..
This remains a difficult subject to address in Ireland. When I was travelling through Derry-Londonderry or Belfast, I found the murals intimidating, I thought reconciliation initiatives should be given priority. Thank you for your useful explanations.
They are definitely intimidating which is why I think it very useful to actually embrace them on a tour with someone who can put them in context.
Reconciliation is a tough one – it means changes within communities and between communities and takes a very long time. There are several organisations throughout the North who are doing just what you say – working on reconciliation themes and committed to the future rather than the past. XXXMarie
There is a huge mix of politics in those murals, but that is NI, I have friends there. Until the murals are change , the conflict will remain.
There are many who definitely consider the murals as being at odds with the Peace Process but for many residents in these neighbourhoods – esp Derry and Belfast – the artworks are an integral part of their culture and community. That is a debate that will continue for generations…
Meanwhile, tourist initiatives like the Titanic Quarter in Belfast and the Game of Throne tours are bringing new generations of visitors to the North for reasons other than the Troubles and that can only be a good thing. XXXMarie
I hope too
And now Derry is coping with a different sort of crisis – the Corona type. That aside, great post. My, you have been busy with your camera and most of these murals were unknown to me as it’s years since I’ve been to Derry, last time must have been way back in the early eighties. Glad you gave an explanation as well, it helps those who come to “the troubles” without a background in this particular part of Irish history.
You’re right Mari – things are bad there at the moment. I’d a (relatively!) good summer all right – went on a few mini trips so have found something to keep writing about for the moment at least.
Those murals are dated from the early 90’s so after your visit…… XXXMarie
And you forgot to mention the fabulous Derry Girls TV show!
Tune in next week Mari!!!!
Thanks for the memories of our 2017 trip. We visited Derry for the first time with our Southern relatives. While you think it is safe, you can not get rid of this niggling feeling of impending danger. By the time we departed, we had fallen in love with Derry and its long suffering people. Stay well Marie. Allan
There are still so many outstanding issues to be resolved but, as any place coming out of a conflict, they are trying very hard to move on…
Glad you liked it – we didn’t stay over – its been a good few years since we spent a night in Derry so I’ve no idea what its like as a town at nighttime. XXXMarie
Beautifully covered Marie, such creativity arising from terrible times. I’d be interested to visit Derry with a view to diving back further into its history.
I personally think Derry is a very interesting place in which to learn about the Northern Conflict. Of course the most important thing is to be vigilant of partial interpretations and propaganda but sure that applies globally doesn’t it… XXXMarie
Very powerful images and tour Marie. My family went on a trip to NI (from Canada) in the mid 70s. I think if my young mind understood what was going on there I would have been terrified. We stayed with distant relatives who I think thought my parents were mad for bringing us kids. I need to go back to ee it as an adult.
What an extraordinary trip to make in the 70’s!!! I grew up in Dublin but my parents were from Donegal. For all those years, they wouldn’t take the shorter and more convenient route through the North with its better roads but the longer way around by County Sligo. I think you’d find it a very interesting trip…. put it on the list….. XXXMarie
My first visit to Northern Ireland was two decades ago, and I was very nervous about the whole trip. Valters used to live in Drogheda when he arrived in Ireland twenty years ago and still have a few fascinating stories to tell.
While there have been many instances over the last fifty years that has given Northern Ireland a bit of reputation, I find it utterly fascinating place to explore and photograph.
For anyone wanting to visit, it’s a good idea to learn more about it history, which in all honesty is very lengthy and complicated. Either way, I immensely enjoyed your post, murals and all the historical facts. Believe it or not, but we haven’t been to Derry yet. Hopefully next year. Thanks for sharing and have a good weekend 😊 Aiva
If you make it to north Donegal Aiva, you can very easily visit Derry as a day trip. XXXMarie
https://youtu.be/LjhqP90uaro
Old footage gives some context to the murals
Thanks for the link Tre… there must be so much archive material around that gives insight into the era…. XXXMarie
Really good blog that captures some aspects of the city really well. I notice that it recommends checking out the Unionist perspective in the interest of balance but to the best of my knowledge this is not readily accessible
Hence the difficulty and importance of actually getting a balance. There are some tours that include the Fountain Estate and I’m assuming that guided tours of the Walls offer a balanced history. But you’re right Kathy – one side of the story is more easily accessed than the other. XXMarie
The murals are so moving
Yes – there are a lot of stories behind them. XXXMarie
What a lovely way to present the history of Derry – for residents and tourists alike.
A very simplified and abridged version but it hopefully helps give a bit of context . XXXMarie
Very powerful and moving images. I have enjoyed your post greatly! Would love to explore Northern Ireland someday. Your posts will come quite handy in making the itinerary. Thanks for sharing, Marie. Take care.
There’s lots to see and do – you’d easily work out a great trip either just in NI or including Donegal….XXXMarie
A great photo essay, Marie. The murals are stunning and must be very imposing in real life.
Thank you Emma – yes, very impressive. There’s an added impact I think in that they are all so close together. Not very far from you whenever you are in Donegal – easily done as a day trip from Burtonport. XXXMarie
That’ll have to be next year now as I broke my leg/ankle in March and I have been stuck in Wales ever since!
Oh Emma – a pal of mine in the same situation – broke ankle early summer and is just now beginning to come round… I wish you well in your recovery and hopefully you’ll be travelling again in 2021!
I hope so too. I have decided that it will take a year for a full recovery (although one cheery doctor said it would never be the same again) and I am at 9 months now.
Well … DARE I say… that if there was ANY year in which to break an ankle, 2020 mightn’t have been the worst!!! You were never going to go far this year anyway!! Nice doctor!!!!
Thanks for this one. A heap of Irish blood and history in me, but I’ve never been there. Had my opportunity in the ‘70’s – so close to Ireland. But too afraid because of the ‘troubles’. Too far away now.
Ah it wasn’t a place to visit in the 70’s. It’s a long, long way from you all right. If you ever get the chance, you should watch the wonderful ‘Derry Girls’ – a sitcom set during the troubles. XXXMarie
Stunning street art!
Each one on it’s own – up there on the gable of a house – is impressive but when packaged together they make an indelible impression….
Very informative and great photos. Thank-you.
Thank you – Glad you enjoyed… XXXMarie
Very informative and great photos. Thank you.
How fantastic and amazing art and history. Great post!
Ah thank you – it really is an extraordinary story isn’t it….
These are fascinating, Marie. I don’t know why this post popped up on an email from you liking or commenting on something of mine, but it made me click on it! I’d actually like to see the Derry Girls mural, but I had no idea about most of these ones. They’re very poignant, a lot more so than the ones in Belfast imo, although they were really interesting with the stories behind them. Thanks for sharing the stories behind these!
Belfast certainly has the higher profile but Derry has its own story and is definitely worth a visit sometime Clazz…
Fantastic murals 😍
They’re very special indeed – such a historical record …
I would love to visit Derry, and to see these murals. I wish I had known about them when I last visited Ireland. Although my ancestors came to NZ in the 1870’s, the troubles of those times came with them to NZ. We grew up hearing their stories.
And so little has changed in the 150 years since!