VISITING SOUTH AFRICA?- YOU’R JUST GOING TO LOVE THE WINELANDS!

You don’t have to be a connoisseur to enjoy this region – you don’t even have to be a wine drinker. A day or two here is the perfect antidote to the bustle of Cape Town but, located a mere hour away from the city, even a day trip is worth it.

How it all began….

In 1652, the Dutch East India Company set up a colony in (present day) Cape Town for the purpose of providing fresh food for their ships heading to Asia.

In 1655, Jan van Riebeeck – the first governor of the Cape – planted a vineyard and the first wine was made in 1659. While he encouraged farmers to follow suit, the settlers had no real wine tradition and general ignorance of the industry meant many setbacks.

Wine quality evolved with the arrival of more knowledgeable colonists but there were other challenges along the way – exportation was resisted by European wine producers while a shortage of oak made the aging of wine more difficult.

Things improved for a while in the 19th century with the arrival of the British – they were at war with France and so created a new market for Cape wine.

Unfortunately for the Cape, eventual peace between England and France caused wine exports to collapse. Then in the 1880’s, the vineyards were decimated by the disease phylloxera, followed by the Boer War in 1899 – it would take several decades before the vineyards would again flourish.

Apartheid would lead to international sanctions but, from the 1990’s onwards, the industry has experienced a renaissance and is now thriving on the global stage.

A day or two in the area

With over 200 wineries along the various wine routes, you’re (probably!) not going to sample them all! The most popular wine-making towns – Franschhoek, Stellenbosch, Paarl – are within easy reach of each other and all three are usually included in day tours from Cape Town. While some visitors focus on the finest vintages in the top wineries, I reckon that most mere mortals are just there to do the ‘wine thing’ – and there’s nothing wrong with that!

WHAT WE DID….

Our travel agent (Trailfinders) had recommended Franschhoek for our two nights and booked us onto the Wine Tram for Day 2. That, alas, was pretty much the extent of our planning and research (apart of course, from some very generous wine sampling over the previous 5 days!) so we left Cape Town, heading off into the great unknown – ready to swirl, sniff and taste our way through the winelands.

A very short trip indeed brought us to Stellenbosch by mid morning…

This university town – the capital of the winelands – is actually the second oldest settlement in South Africa after Cape Town. Old Cape Dutch, Georgian and Victorian buildings are all represented in its historic centre. It’s a lovely place to wander for a while and enjoy a coffee in one of the sidewalk cafes.

We nipped into the Tourist Office for a lunch recommendation and a very helpful guide directed us towards the Lanzerac Estate – just a short drive from town. The deli menu was perfect for our needs and we eventually had to tear ourselves away from the verandah and continue on our way.

I probably should add at this stage that one of us four is a non drinker so no tossing a coin re turn taking at the steering wheel!

As soon as we hit Franschhoek we knew our Trailfinders’ agent had made the right choice. Nice and all as Stellenbosch is, we all preferred the strung out main street here with its galleries, shops and restaurants (and I can’t believe that I haven’t even one photo!!!).

Franschhoek from the nearby hills

Le Franschhoek Hotel and Spa

We stayed here on a B&B plan for two nights…

Positives

Spacious rooms

Nice breakfast, freshly prepared to order (we didn’t dine in otherwise)

Pool area and patio

Parking

Niggly Bits

At circa 2 miles from town, there are more convenient options closer to the action, especially for those without a car.

THE WINE TRAM

This is a great way to enjoy the area with minimum effort. As with any HOP ON HOP OFF experience, you can do as much or as little as you wish. The Tram and Tram buses work five different lines, each hosting 7-9 wineries. Tickets cost R300 (€15) and should be booked in advance. Wine Tastings can then be purchased at each estate. But you can also just enjoy a glass of wine or a coffee, have a snack or lunch, check out the winery shop or just have a wander.

9.30 am and we’re enjoying our welcome drink on the Tram … bit early but it would be rude to refuse!!!

We alight at Rickety Bridge Winery (wouldn’t you go for the name alone!!) where our transport awaits!

It’s not yet 10am!!! But we opt for the Cap Classique tasting… (R105 = €5) and enjoy 2 glasses of bubbly – a white and a blush…

…. and back on the tram….

…. to Grande Provence

Well this is impressive! – we forgo the vino and concentrate on the art collection….

We go back to the terminal and transfer to a Tram Bus and head up the hill…

It’s lunchtime so we opt for Dieu Donne….

…. where for €20 we’ve plenty of food for 4 in the gorgeous mixed platter and snack trio…

As we enjoy the views over a glass – or two!- of their Merlot, we decide en masse that we’re actually satisfied to call it a day so we head back to the terminal and while away the afternoon in the shops on main street, stopping only for coffees and ice creams!

EATING OUT

On both nights, we eschewed the opportunity for fine dining in favour of casual fare.

We were happy with our Italian option the first evening…

…while on day 2 we’d enough wine for a while so headed for Tuk Tuk Microbrewery!!!

Ah – a welcome beer – and filet steak for less than €10!

Seriously!!! Dessert for ONE!! Churros with custard and chocolate (€4)

QUICK RECAP…

Day 1

Drive Cape town to Stellenbosch

Walkabout and Coffee

Lanzerac Estate for lunch

Drive to Franschhoek

Check in and evening at pool.

Dinner – Col’cacchio

Day 2

Wine Tram

Rickety Bridge – Wine Tasting

Grande Provence – Walkabout

Dieu Donne – Lunch

Afternoon – Main Street Shopping

Dinner – Tuk Tuk

Day 3

Depart after breakfast.