5 Reasons to love Essaouira!

It’s amazing how many people I’ve come across who haven’t been to Morocco – I say amazed because, even from home, cheap direct flights from Dublin get you there in under four hours. While the labyrinths of Marrakesh and Fez are admittedly daunting for the uninitiated, the seaside town of Essaouira is perfect for the first time visitor – nice long promenade, small medina, plenty of restaurants and coffee shops, and – fixed price taxis!!! This isn’t a town with a long list of must do’s but, I promise you – few days chilling here and you’ll be back for a longer adventure!

1. THE PORT

I could hang around here all day!

The first thing you notice, of course, are the blue boats – hundreds of them!!! That iconic Essaouira image….

But this is a working port. A closer look reveals all the fishing paraphernalia – these boats are not just for show!!

For centuries, this was a hugely important trading port. Greeks, Romans, Phoenicians and Portuguese all passed through and it was to become a major player in global business between Africa, Europe and the Americas with foreign trade in gold, ivory, spices, sugar, cotton, tea and slaves all handled in the harbour.

The waters are no longer deep enough for the large container ships of today – business has moved north to Casablanca and south to Agadir. All port action centres on fishing – sardines are the main catch (followed by mackerel and anchovies) – and a bit of tourism.

The trawlers, arriving back with crates of sardines, attract locals and visitors alike who gather to watch the unloading of the cargo…

The freshly caught fish are quickly packed on to ice, ready for distribution….

….and then nets are repaired and readied for the next expedition…

Not all of the catch is shipped off – colourful stalls on the pier sell everything from shellfish, eels, octopus and, of course, sardines…

While this young entrepreneur is probably selling fish that spilled from the crates…

If the sights and smells are a bit too much for you….

…..at least go and enjoy the colour!!!

2. THE RAMPARTS

The 18th century walls are in good shape – considering the constant battering of the Atlantic!

The cannon-lined ramparts offer great views out over the ocean…

….but the big draw is the setting sun.

Trivia Moment – the city walls doubled as Astapor in Game of Thrones.

3. THE MEDINA

There are two major considerations for those of you who immediately PANIC at the thought of twisting alleyways and haggling merchants…

Because it wasn’t constructed until the mid 18th century, the layout of this medina was influenced by European design so most of the streets are organised in grid pattern – you’re not going to get lost!

The shopping experience is much more relaxed than Marrakesh – yes, there’s a bit of banter and of course they want you to come in to their stores, but the traders have a more laid-back attitude, allowing you to browse in relative peace (which probably means you’ll buy more anyway…..)

The walls of the city provide shelter for the medina – and a useful prop for the traders….

This is not just a place for souvenirs and Argan Oil – locals will be found shopping for their fish, fruit, clothes and household items.

There’s everything here – covered souks, street stalls, shops, galleries….

Typically, there are souks for specific products – spices, wood….

This resident is eyeing up the day’s catch in the fish souk…

AND! speaking of residents……

You might just notice a cat or two!!!

It’s not all about shopping of course. The best thing is to just wander off with your camera….

Your rambling will bring you to the Mellah – or Jewish Quarter – of the Medina. In the 18th century, 10 Jewish merchants were invited to settle in the city and handle the ever increasing volume of trade with Europe (although they would have resided in a grander part of town!). By 1950, there were circa 18,000 members in the community (60% of the population), trading in jewelry and fabrics or working in one of the 40 distilleries that prepared Mahia, an anise-flavored fig alcohol. After the founding of Israel, the neighbourhood lost most of its population.

Nowadays, the area is in a bad way. Many buildings are abandoned and crumbling. There are, however, a few signs of restoration.

4. THE BEACH

So – there’s good news and there’s bad news! The good news is that the city boasts a magnificent 2km long beach. The bad news? Essaouira is known as the WINDY CITY OF AFRICA! – a rather relentless wind makes sunbathing a tad unpleasant and swimming conditions aren’t great either….

Eyes left….

…. and right!

You can walk the prom, stopping along the way for a mint tea or a coke….

Or get down on the beach and enjoy what’s on offer!!!

(Just so you’ll know – I’m not actually modelling in any of the above!)

5. FOOD

Dining here is a real treat. Yes, there are some pictured menus which we are always warned to run a mile from but, apart from slow service in a few places (and, to be fair, it was Ramadan), everything was great. Newcomers to town can enjoy plenty of seafood, Moroccan salads, couscous, tagines and mint tea but Essaouira has a surprisingly varied restaurant scene so there are lots of Western standards as well as Italian, Asian and Vegetarian options for those of you you have been in the country for a while and would welcome a change from local fare. You can also enjoy a break from your shopping in a cool coffee shop, patisserie or creperie or head out to a beach bar along the promenade.

There are small food shops in the medina as well as the fresh produce stalls and there’s also a Carrefour about 2km away for those interested in self catering (e.g. we’d a kettle in our room so shopped for lunch items).

Small Stuff

Getting There

Air: Essaouira has a small airport with limited range of domestic and international flights. Most visitors arrive via Agadir or Marrakech airport. 

Bus: Regular buses run from Casablanca (6 hours), Marrakech (3 / 3.5 hours) and Agadir (3 hours)

Private Transfer: The priciest option but will collect you from the airport and drop you at your door.

Car Rental: Offers you door to door service and flexibility of schedule – especially if you’re touring the country.

Day Tours: There are day tours on offer from Agadir and Marrakech. I’m not sure how satisfactory such a trek would be – most of it must be spent in the bus – but I suppose it presents an opportunity to see the city for a few hours.

What we’ve done: We have bussed from both Marrakech and Agadir. This time (April, 2024), we rented a car in Agadir airport.

Getting Around

Walk: Walking is best – the medina area is compact enough and the promenade – well – it’s a promenade!!!!

Taxi: There are plenty of taxis at the gates of the medina and there’s a fixed rate around town – 8dh daytime and 9dh at night.

Bus: The local service will take you to nearby towns and markets

Sleeping

In the ten years since our first visit to Essaouira, there’s been huge growth in accommodation options…

It’s a matter of preference really –

The medina offers hostel accommodation, riads and boutique hotels boasting roof terraces and great views. On more than one occasion, we came across weary newcomers in the back alleys, presumably searching out their Airbnb.

Out along the beach you will find the modern apartments, larger hotels and all inclusive resorts.

What about us?

For one night I’d be happy to stay in the medina. BUT … we were there for 4 nights and wanted a place to sit (preferably in the sun!!) and relax for a few hours at a time. However, we also wanted to be within walking distance of the medina. And we needed a parking option for our rental.

Hotel le Médina Essaouira Thalassa Sea and Spa is situated along the promenade, about a 5 minute walk from the medina gate.

See – that’s the city gate straight ahead…..

It has a small terrace across the road with loungers and umbrellas (although the umbrellas were more down than up due to the wind!!). The terrace is elevated so sand isn’t blowing in your face all the time.

Our next door neighbours are rather at the mercy of the tides!!!!

(PS – this isn’t a storm – just a very dull afternoon!!)

While most of the action- kite surfing, camels, etc. – happens at the far end of the beach, there’s enough going on along here during the day to distract you from your book…. (not a very exciting photo I know – but I want you to see the blue sky in case that last photo has scared you off!!!)

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If it gets too windy then just go back across the road to the hotel pool!

Parking is on-street (but the doorman keeps a watchful eye). Breakfast was included in our room rate. You can lunch (wraps, salads, etc) at the pool or out at the beach terrace but, as I mentioned above, we’d a kettle in the room so mostly catered for ourselves during the day before wandering in to town for dinner. Be mindful that, away from reception, French is more widely understood than English.

Verdict? We have stayed here before so knew what to expect. At €110 per night it won’t suit everyone’s purse. (If booking, shop around and make sure to get breakfast included in your rate – we didn’t the first time but have learned….).

The location is perfect – there is better value further away of course but we wanted to park the car and walk everywhere.

Weather

Essaouira is dry, moderate, and windy all year round.

The summer months (June to August) can be hot in the medina with highs of 30°C or more – the beach will be a little cooler (this is actually the windiest time of year). This is peak time for domestic tourism when Moroccans try to escape the fierce heat of the major cities so accommodation will be at a premium – both availability and cost.

The shoulder seasons (March – May and September – November) are mild and pleasant (18°C to 25°C) and without the high season crowds. The wind drops in Sept / Oct so it’s supposed to be a lovely time to visit.

Winter temperatures are around 18°C – which sounds ok but don’t forget that windchill factor!

For us? In early April, we left temperatures of 37°C in the interior of the country for more modest figures here – low 20’s – maybe reaching mid 20’s away from the beach. Sunshine all the time, except for one very dull afternoon. We spent most days across on the beach terrace but on that dull afternoon the windchill eventually drove us back across the road to the shelter of the poolside. We found evenings to be chilly enough and were more comfortable wrapped up in long trousers, leaving the hotel with both hoodie and jacket (and glad to wear both on the way home!!).

Money Matters

Away from your hotel, the higher end restaurants and Carrefour supermarket, you’ll need cash.

Language

Arabic and Berber are the official languages of the state. French is widespread in the tourist trade. Don’t assume English will be understood – traders and hospitality staff have enough to get by….. you’ll be fine!!!