My Top 10 of Everything! – What you won’t want to miss on a Florida Keys Road Trip!

Fancy a road trip that’s small on mileage but big on variety? The Keys are probably for you. This classic 113 mile stretch offers up everything from wildlife to wild life – yep – from the great outdoors and all its wonders, to Key West with its artistic community, literary landscapes and festive night life culture (i.e. the Duval Crawl!)

So, where are we off to…..

A mere 15 miles south of Miami will find you at the start of the Florida Keys – a chain of some 1700 islands (about half of which are charted and around 30 inhabited). The Calusa and Tequesta Native American tribes hunted and fished the waters until the Spanish arrived in 1513. The explorer Juan Ponce de León – credited as being the first European on Florida soil – dubbed the islands Los Martires (The Martyrs) because they reminded him of men in distress! The Keys is derived from the Spanish word Cayo (small island).

The Spanish tried mapping the reefs to help their ships navigate their bountiful cargoes from the New World back to Europe. Not very successfully – frequent shipwrecks allowed piracy and salvaging to become hugely profitable industries.

The Keys officially became part of the US in 1822 and settlers eventually fought off the pirates, claiming the islands for their own. Thanks to a prime location – close to Cuba and the Bahamas as well as a New Orleans trade route (not forgetting its prosperous shipwrecking industry!) – Key West was to quickly become the largest city in Florida and, at one point, the richest city in America.

Industries like cigars, sponging and fishing were also flourishing but the region was still isolated and accessible only by water. Enter Henry Flagler – founder of Standard Oil and real estate developer. He followed the construction of the Panama canal with interest and realised the potential in connecting the Keys to mainland US. He set out to extend his already established Florida East Coast Railway and, despite the alligators, snakes and multiple hurricanes, some 4000 African American, Bahamian and European immigrants eventually completed the 128 miles of the Overseas Railway, allowing Flagler to ride from Homestead to Key West in 1912.

Agricultural, commercial and tourism industries boomed on the islands – which was just as well as improved navigational techniques ended the lucrative salvaging industry! All was good until the Labor Day hurricane of 1935 destroyed much of the railroad, sweeping away miles of track.

What was left was sold back to the state of Florida for $640,000.  The bridges had incredibly survived and the government replaced the railway with a highway – in many cases simply paving over the original track. The narrow two-lane highway finally linked Key West by road to the mainland but the trip was harrowing to say the least in anything larger than a small car – relief didn’t come until the 1980’s when many of the original bridges were finally replaced.

With five distinct regions – Key West, Lower Keys, Marathon, Islamorada, Key Largo – boasting their own culture and character, it’ll be up to you to decide what and where to prioritise – but road trips are about the stops along the way….

Here’s a taste…..

1. Just Enjoy the Route

Pity the visitor flying in to Key West airport or arriving by cruise ship for a day in port!

And yes – you can easily cover the distance in a half day….. but why!!

It mightn’t be the most thrilling road you’ve ever negotiated but just imagine the Atlantic on one side, Florida Bay on the other and the Gulf of Mexico straight ahead! Yes, it makes for a straight drive over a rather flat landscape but this southernmost leg of US Highway 1 spans 44 island and 42 bridges! That’s a LOT of stunning views!

While the ‘main streets’ of the bigger islands may smack of commercialism with their t-shirt shops and endless snorkelling and scuba advertisements, there are gems to be found off the highway and of course there are the wonderful bridges, the most iconic of which – the Famous Seven Mile Bridge – is a true masterpiece of engineering.

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Eventually you will end up on Duval Street – the heart of Key West. Less than a mile long, it is lined with galleries, shops and restaurants – morphing into a bar-hopping hotspot come nightfall.

2. Unwrap your picnic lunch in a state park

The Keys are home to a variety of ecosystems, including coastal rock and dunes, mangrove swamps and vibrant coral reefs. Park trails offer the opportunity to explore the different landscapes and encounter a rich assortment of wildlife – not to mention the chance to loll on a beach for a while!

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park…..

Bahia Honda State Park….

3. Get out on the water!

This is serious charter-fishing territory for short coastal jaunts or deep sea excursions (but I presume all you anglers out there would know that!).

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park was the first undersea park in the US, covering some 75 sq miles of coral reef, swamp and seagrass bed. You can join a snorkelling or SCUBA tour here or go kayaking through the mangroves.

If that all sounds a bit energetic, you can always opt for their glass-bottom tour!

That still sound too much?- ok – I think a TIKI BAR is for you!!!

4. Indulge in the local foodie and boozie delights!

I hope you like seafood! Think chowder, Florida lobster, stone crabs, conch fritters – be it at a seafood shack or a mom nd pop diner or a fine dining restaurant. Don’t panic though – you carnivores and vegetarians are well catered for!

Of course you have to try the iconic Key Lime Pie. Did you know that real Key limes are yellow – NOT green (so your slice of pie should not be green!) – and – condensed milk is a main ingredient because fresh milk was uncommon on the Keys in the 1930’s when the dessert originated.

You can try local brews at the Islamorada Brewery, Cuban coffee in Key West and sunset cocktails – well – everywhere! If you’re staying in Key West then you’ll probably end your evening on Duval Street – participating in the Duval Crawl (just barhopping!) – for as long as you can manage!

5. Absorb the History and Stories

ORIGINAL RAILROAD

Many of the old bridges can still be seen alongside the newer ones. Restoration is ongoing, allowing for fishing, pedestrian and bike traffic.

The workers who built Flagler’s railway in the early 1900s lived on Pigeon Key. It has remained unchanged since then and its museum describes the construction of the original railroad-bridge.

CUSTOMS HOUSE

In 1833, the federal government erected a small wooden structure to house its Key West customs operations.  Highly lucrative to say the least! By 1882, the annual revenue generated in Key West alone was greater than that received from all other Florida ports combined.

In recognition of this growing economy, the U.S. Treasury authorized the construction of a larger premises. The new Romanesque building opened in 1891, housing Key West’s Customs Offices, District Court, and Post Office.  The Court would go on to deal with thousands of rum runners and ship salvaging claims.  Among its most significant proceedings was the 1898 sinking of the USS Maine in Havana harbor, which lead to the Spanish-American War.

Today the Custom House is a museum run by the local Art and Historical Society. .

LIGHTHOUSE

The Key West Lighthouse dates back to 1825. The Keeper’s Quarters have been restored and you can also climb the 88 steps to admire the view.

THE LITTLE WHITEHOUSE

Originally built by the U.S. Navy in 1890, President Harry Truman used this house as his winter vacation home (1946 -1952) and other presidents followed suit. The Little White House has been restored and turned into a museum with exhibits documenting Key West’s role in naval conflicts, as well as the house’s history.

 

6. Capture those Selfie Moments!

I’ll readily admit to being one of those awful people who pull out the camera phone as soon as food is placed in front of them – but – in my defence – 99% of the time it’s so I’ll later remember what I had! And yes – I like to record places we’ve been to – pretty much for the same reason. However, as I hate myself in photos, and have limited photographic skills, I’m usually content with a quick snapshot and I’m on my way…

The Keys are littered with dream locations for all you Instagrammers – but I suspect others have been there before you!

SOUTHERNMOST POINT

You know you’re nearly there because there’s southernmost EVERYTHING close by – southernmost cafe, southernmost gift shop, southernmost motel….. and then there’s the queue!

The huge red, black and yellow buoy does not actually mark the southernmost point of continental USA – it’s not even the most southern point of Key West! But when did fact ever get in the way of a good marketing ploy! If you’re happy to queue for up to an hour for that photo then good for you! – Or … you can go to the top of the line, wait until there’s a changeover of posers, and photograph the buoy itself…. you can always photoshop yourself in to the shot later!

MILE MARKER

Less busy is the US-1 Mile Marker 0. The highway heads off from here, up the east coast to Maine – some 4,000kms away (actually that must make for a great road trip?)

KAPOK TREE

Close to the 0 Mile Marker is the towering tropical Kapok or Java Cotton Tree – estimated at over 100 years old. Standing a whopping 130 feet tall, it’s the trunk that makes the greatest impression. The tree is significant in Mayan mythology but has commercial value also – its fiber was used at one stage in life jackets while its seed oil is used in soap and fertilizer.

ERNEST HEMMINGWAY HOME

One of Key West’s best known freshwater conchs (residents not born on the island!!), Hemmingway lived here in the 1930’s and penned some of his most famous works – A Farewell to Arms, For whom the Bell Tolls – in the mansion. If you want more than a selfie at the gate there’s an entrance fee but the house itself is interesting and worth a look

7. Revel in the weird and wonderful……

CHICKENS

Early settlers in Key West kept chickens in coups and used them for food. After Key West became connected to the mainland there was less need to raise one’s own food, and many chickens were eventually released or escaped.

Cubans migrating to Key West in the 1860’s brought the sport of cockfighting. which thrived until it was outlawed in the late 1970s. The roosters were no longer needed and many were just released, to fend for themselves.

Presumably, these abandoned males and females got together and nowadays their many descendants are all under legal protection due to their cultural significance!

TARPON

The story goes that the owner of Robbie’s found a wounded tarpon off his docks back in 1976, nursed it back to health and began feeding it. Soon, the word was out, more fish arrived and the tradition of feeding the tarpon was born. Nowadays, up to 100 tarpon appear daily at the Islamorada marina – you can buy baitfish and join in the feeding frenzy.

CATS

Hemmingway’s mansion is home to a menagerie of cats – anything between 40-60 in number. He was given a white six-toed cat by a ship’s captain in the 1930’s and many of today’s residents are believed to be descendants.

GRAVEYARD

I Always Dreamed Of Owning A Small Place In Key West

If You’re Reading This, You Desperately Need A Hobby

Wonderful stuff! There are plenty of thought provoking tributes in the Key West graveyard but also much to giggle at (maybe I DO need a hobby!!)

8. Seek out some Architectural Gems

The streets of Key West offer up an eclectic mix of architectural styles, and, while life is way too short to go into the minutiae of Bahamian Clapboard vs Conch Cottage, you will love straying away from the main thoroughfares and admiring the rich heritage the town has to offer.

Many homes were built by ship carpenters of the 1800’s. Then you had the thousands of Cuban cigar-industry workers who were housed in cottages. As the wealth of the city increased, so did the houses, reflected in the Queen Anne style of the time.

The uninformed among us will be happy to just admire the wooden structures – some 3000 of them – mostly built between 1886 – 1912. Hard rot-resistant Dade County pine was the wood of choice. Many were set on posts to allow air to circulate under the floor and featured shuttered doors and windows. Long wraparound porches maximised airflow while metal roofs reflected the sunlight (some included hatches for additional air circulation). Many were painted in pastel shades and featured wooden scrollwork called gingerbread. Finally, they were finished off with a little picket fence and maybe some tropical landscaping.

In reaction to several historic dwellings being torn down to make way for modern development, the Old Island Restoration Foundation (OIRF) was established in 1960 to promote the restoration and preservation of Key West’s historically significant buildings.

9. Embrace the Kitsch!

You don’t HAVE to be a movie buff to stop at Key Largo for a cruise on the African Queen (but it helps!!). Have your dollar bills ready to sick on a pub wall and the camera always at hand for those quirky shots!

10. Watch the sun set

Sunsets are a VERY big deal in these here parts! Any restaurant or accommodation that offers even a glimpse of red sky will make sure to let you know as you drive through the Keys. When you get to Key West, you’ll join the locals and visitors at Mallory square.  It is where locals and tourists alike come to watch the sunset, joined by street entertainers to add to the sense of celebration.  

Small Stuff

GETTING THERE

There are airports in Miami and Key West but most international visitors will arrive into Miami and continue on from there with a rental or as part of an organised tour. You can visit Key West by cruise ship – only one ship is permitted to berth at a time.

GETTING AROUND

Key West is very walkable but there are lots of options – bikes, golf buggies, trolley and Conch Train

The drive through the Keys is straightforward but you need to allow for heavy congestion – remember the highway is just mostly single lane in each direction and peak times and traffic accidents can put several hours on to your trip ( make sure to have a stash of drinks and snacks with you!)

WHERE TO STAY

Needless to say, there’s accommodation here for almost every pocket (almost – there won’t be many bargains!)

What WE did (for an all too short 5 night trip)….

Night 1 – we just wanted basic lodgings, late arrival, before we hit the Keys.

The Travelodge by Wyndham, Florida City served its purpose – parking, clean room, nearby eateries, We’d actually spent a night there a few weeks beforehand and were happy to return. There are plenty of other motels in the area.

Nights 2-4 – we needed parking, to be within walking distance of everything and preferably with a pool.

Silver Palms Inn, Key West offered a reasonable rate for the area. Omelet station in the morning. And yes – we walked everywhere…

Night 5

Our last night, we opted for Key Largo (well – you have to – don’t you!). We wanted parking and a beach front if possible.

Key Largo seems to be full of these mini waterfront motels. Bay Harbor Lodge was lovely – nice grounds and right on the water. Fresh scones and coffee in the morning.

While you’re there….

EVERGLADES

An easy addition to your trip – worth adding even one day on to your itinerary.

MIAMI

I’d NO idea how close the city was to the Keys – If you’re flying in to Miami airport then why not stay for a few days… (We stayed at Miami Beach at the beginning of this trip – then returned to the airport by public bus and picked up our rental at that stage).

The days drift by
They don’t have names
And none of the streets here look the same
And there aren’t many reasons I would leave
Yes, I have found me some peace
Yes, I have found me a home.

Jimmy Buffett (I Have Found Me a Home)