From Big to Small – 6 Lombardy Favourites (away from the Lakes)

From our first visit in 1986, up to the most recent this summer, I think ( only think) we’ve visited Italy 15 times. We’d eight family camping holidays that took in the ‘big’ Italian names – Rome, Florence, Venice, Siena, Pisa, Sorrento, etc. as well as lakes, mountains beaches, pasta…… We’d two self drive trips in Puglia and Sicily and there were shorter breaks to northern towns – Parma, Ravenna,….. and so on…

And I honestly don’t feel we’ve even tipped the iceberg! We’re always in a rush – fitting in piazzas, duomos, ruins and galleries before moving to the next town…. they’re all gorgeous!

Lombardy, in Italy’s industrial north, seems to have it all – not just the home of modernity, development and finance, it has been blessed with stunning lakes and majestic peaks, a richness of architecture, art and music – and the cuisine isn’t bad either! We’d a mini, mini whirlwind trip over a couple of days in July that introduced us to a few new towns in the region. And those, along with 2 favourites I’m throwing in for good measure, have the makings of a very nice tour. But, I must warn you, at the end of it, all those duomos and frescos will have rolled in to one massive overload!!

Milan

It took me a long time to get to Milan. In my head it could never compete with the big 3 – Rome, Florence and Venice. I’m not one for luxury shopping (my money goes on travel of course!), there couldn’t be a lot to see there anyway and it always sounded… well … a bit grey maybe?

Sure, what do I know!! The wonderful Duomo, its splendid roof with 135 spires, Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper in the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the beautiful Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II ( the non-fashionista among you can settle for coffee and cake) and La Scala Opera House will while away many hours before you head to the Navigli for your Milanese Aperitivo.

(The Navigli are ancient navigable canals which, nowadays, are at the heart of the nightlife area. Aperitivo typically involves buying a cocktail or other beverage which gives you access to an open buffet in the bar. It’s about social interaction as much as the food – a VERY Happy Hour indeed!)

Mantua

I knew two things about Mantua – neither of which is really a reason for you to visit!! In Romeo and Juliet, Romeo is banished to Mantua (which I can tell you, is 46kms from Juliet’s balcony in Verona! I suppose he rode there but Google Maps doesn’t include that option so I don’t know how long it took him!!!). The other thing is that my beloved father-in-law came from the townland of Mantua in Ireland’s midlands. The name originates from a local estate and big house that was built in the 1740’s – it was common practice for grand residences of that era to be named after famous European locations (suggesting a certain sophistication as well as distancing themselves from Irish place names). Opera buffs among you will know something else of course – that Verdi’s Rigoletto is set in Mantua.

The Gonzaga family was to Mantua what the Medicis were to Florence and under its rule, the city became one of the most eminent centres of the Renaissance. The fact that it has managed to preserve its historical centre has rightly earned it UNESCO status. The star attraction is the Palazzo Ducal but you’ll easily pass a day here, admiring the churches, piazzas and lakes.

Bergamo

I’ve been saying it for years – don’t just fly into Bergamo airport and head off on the Milan bus – head into the hilltop town for a night at least….

Citte’ Alta (Upper City) – perched on top of a hill and surrounded by massive (UNESCO World Heritage Site) Venetian walls – is accessed by a funicular from Citte’ Bassa. The old town offers up lovely piazzas, cobblestone streets and great views of course.

Pavia

Things move a tad slowly in this university town! The construction of the cathedral began in 1488 and remains incomplete – it still awaits its marble facade and some internal flooring! But they’re very proud of their dome – one of the tallest in Italy, Leonardo himself had a hand in its construction. That’s not the only show in town – there are two Basilicas and countless churches to be admired en route to the city’s most famous landmark. The medieval Ponte Coperto (Covered Bridge) was badly damaged by Allied action in 1945. This reconstruction began in 1949. And yes – it even has it’s own chapel!!

Cremona

If you’re just looking for a crash course in architectural evolution then Piazza del Comune is the place for you! The Duomo with its striking Carrara marble facade was finished in 1107 but the original Romanesque structure was blessed with an array of embellishments in subsequent centuries – a Gothic rose window, Baroque statues and Renaissance alterations to name a few. Beside it, the Torrozzo is the tallest brick bell tower in Europe and its 502 step climb will reward you with a fine view! It is home to the world’s largest astronomical clock.

Of course Cremona is all about violins. Families like the Amati and Stradavari have stamped their mark on the instrument but the tradition lives on and there are about 150 workshops and luthiers (a craftsperson who builds or repairs string instruments) in the city today while the Museo del Violino is the biggest tourist attraction.

Lodi

Last, but not least, I’ve included the medieval town of Lodi which lies in the heart of the Po Valley. In Piazza della Vittoria, the 12th century cathedral boasts the now familiar architectural mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance and an added bell tower. Many buildings around the lovely Piazza della Vittoria have retained their medieval arcades. The main sights are all located within a short distance of the square and the nearby streets are nice for a wander before coming back for a coffee.

So there you have it. I’m not suggesting for a moment that you do a whirlwind trip of them all – I certainly couldn’t do it! Our mini trip this summer took in Lodi, Pavia, Cremona and Mantua which we visited from our base on nearby Lake Garda, overnighting on the outskirts of Milan and then Cremona. In 2017 (can’t believe it’s that long!!), we combined Bergamo and Milan on a 5 night mini break from Dublin. We’ve visited Bergamo a few times – practicing what I preach and stopping off after our budget flight to Bergamo airport!

Lombardia Wikivoyage.svg

27 thoughts on “From Big to Small – 6 Lombardy Favourites (away from the Lakes)

    1. It’s such an advantage living on the continent. Nowadays we fly and hire a car of course but we used to drive to Spain and Italy – towing a trailer tent or caravan. We’d have to allow 2 days each way to the north French coast and then another day at least from there – so a week was eaten up before we did anything else!

  1. I enjoyed your recap! I am not one for luxury shopping either, but I’ll gladly eat all the gelato, pizza, and pasta! We are headed back to Italy next summer. My sister is getting married in the Dolomites. Godo excuse to go back 🙂

  2. I just tried to count up how many times I’ve been to Italy and interestingly I think it’s 15! That includes a stay in Bergamo (I agree, not to be missed!) and a very brief one in Milan for football, but your other four suggestions are new to me and all sound worth seeing. How did you travel between them? Train or drive?

    1. We’d a car this time. We were staying in Lazise on the lake but when Santa heard I was going to be in Italy for a wedding, he brought me tickets for Springsteen in Milan!!! Isn’t Santa wonderful!! So we made a mini trip out of it. A night beside the stadium in Milan and then a night in Cremona. Having said that, all those towns are within easy reach of Milan. If one was based close to the main bus station they’d be easily accessible…

  3. Lombardy is one of my favourite regions to visit and explore in Italy, Marie, and we just returned from yet another trip to Bergamo. I just love wandering around its picturesque and historic Città Alta, exploring Venetian walls, taking in stunning views, and an authentic Italian atmosphere that offers a charming alternative to more crowded cities. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx

    1. It was only when putting the blog together that I realised it was 2017 since last in Bergamo… Definitely due another visit…

    1. I think I picked out 6-7 towns when looking at the map while planning the trip. Broke my heart to cut any of them out but couldn’t fit everything into the time frame. I think if you were to just stick a pin in the Italian map you’d be spoilt for choice! We were very impressed with Milan. This wouldn’t really be an itinerary for a first time visit to Italy -there’s too much else to see – but for anyone heading to the lakes and Venice it would make for a lovely route…

    1. They’re all lovely – we didn’t really have enough time in Mantua but all of them, apart from Milan, are ‘doable’ in a day or even a half day…

  4. I can’t believe you’ve pipped me to the post again! I have been drafting a post along the same lines, re-visiting sites in Lombardy, same sites as you cover with the exception of Lodi and Bergamo which I’ve never visited. I started mine because I’m in the midst of another great clear out of brochures, pamphlets, cuttings etc. and, of course, I’m reading them all again before I bin them! I’m stuck on Cremona a the moment where we spent 4 happy days, torn between keeping glossy books and brochures or binning them (I think I’ll keep them even if the cupboards are bursting). I’ll continue with my recollections, they’ll be different from yours, but I know we both love and appreciate all that Italy offers. Enjoy your next trip. Yours Posts are just great.

    1. Ha!! Sorry Marie!! Again!! 4 days in Cremona sounds like a much more pleasant pace than ours!!! As for brochures etc – I keep everything!! I did a bit of sorting a few years back but it was organising rather than dumping. Since then, a whole new stash has piled up again… But you’ve prompted me to maybe tackle it…. soon!

  5. I’m impressed at how many times you’ve been to Italy. We’ve only been twice, but it’s one of my favourite countries. These are all places we haven’t been to, so it seems a return trip is in order! Thanks for sharing.

    1. The ‘problem’ with any visit to Italy is choosing what to see and what to leave out! Hope you make it there one day! XXXMarie

  6. I understand that after fifteen trips, Italy continues to surprise and inspire admiration. Each major city was once a capital where princes competed in the arts and prestige, and something of that remains for us to enjoy.

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