Lubeck might be of interest to the Xmas Market Brigade amongst you – especially those looking for new destinations. It will particularly suit anyone close to London Stansted which offers direct flights. Alternatively, you can fly to Hamburg and get the train to the Hauptbahnhof (20 mins) and a 40 minute train on to Lubeck. Train ticket from airport to Lubeck costs under €12 each way.
This medieval city centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. You know how beautiful these old cities are – throw in some Christmas lights and you’re in fairyland!!!
The Holstentor – Holsten Gate – is the city’s most recognisable structure (you might know it from Germany’s €2 coin). It’s one of the two remaining gates from the medieval fortifications. Its visible tilt is due to the weight of the building,constructed on marshy ground.
The glazed brick is not just for aesthetic purposes – it was also a sign of wealth
You’ve only to glance at the skyline to see why this is called The City of the Seven Spires! Its 5 main Protestant Gothic churches symbolised the city’s medieval wealth and power.
Close to the Holstentor, the Salzspeicher (Salt storehouses) are a reminder of the importance of white gold to Lubeck’s medieval economy.
Time for a brief history lesson.
The Hanseatic League began in the late 12th century as a collection of loosely associated groups from Lubeck and other Northern German towns – aimed at expanding and protecting their commercial interests. Over time, these arrangements evolved into the League, offering traders toll privileges and security on trade routes. The League was to expand between the 13th – 15th centuries, encompassing almost 200 settlements, stretching from modern-day Estonia in the east to the Netherlands in the west.
Salt was a hugely important commodity in the middle ages and Lubeck had access to plenty of it. Mined in nearby Luneburg, the salt was stored in the Salzspeicher before being shipped to ports throughout the Baltic. Control of the product made Lubeck a major player in the League – and extremely wealthy, needless to say!
In WWII, the bombing of Lübeck was the first major success for the RAF against a German city. Although a port and home to several shipyards, the city was primarily considered a cultural centre and only lightly defended. On 28 March 1942, a bomb attack caused severe damage to the historic centre and destroyed three of the main churches.
Lübeck is located on the River Trave, with its historic old town actually situated on an island between the Trave and its tributary, the Wakenitz
The Dom was the first brick church on the Baltic Sea and, with a length of around 130 meters, one of the longest. It was consecrated in 1247. Severely damaged during the air raid in 1942, its reconstruction took several decades. You can time your visit for a performance from the Astronomical Clock.
I love this! – as the Dom was being scanned for a display model, someone stopped to check their phone and became part of the data!!!
The Town Hall was built over 3 centuries and the many extensions and conversions are reflected in its many styles. The surrounding markets block most of the structure but you can still get an idea….
City crests and shields are tilted – a symbol of peace….
A stroll through the cobbled streets offers up Brick Gothic, Renaissance, Romanesque and Baroque styles and a calmness once away from the old town centre.
But the real gems are the courtyards. As residential space – or lack of! – became an issue within the safety of the city walls, traders began to develop the yards behind their grand houses and what was once a warren of alleys for the poor, is now gentile, highly sought-after and pricey!
The Christmas Markets.
Lubeck offers up the usual range of stalls – LOTS of food and drink and merchandise that regular market goes will recognise from elsewhere! However, we came across two markets away from the open air cluster about City Hall and neighbouring streets – one in St Peter’s Church and the other in a warehouse by the river. The cover charge of €3 and €2 respectively is well worth it because this is where the lovely handmade crafts are hidden , often accompanied by their creators.
A few thoughts…
A lot of the budget options were gone when we went to book accommodation – even though it was a few months back. We settled for Premier Inn Lubeck City Centre which is beside the Train and Bus stations. From there it’s a 10 minute walk max to Holstentor. We didn’t dine in but the dining area was packed in the mornings. The room was fine and they’ll hold your luggage.
Shops close on Sundays so plan accordingly
I’m not a fan of over planning but if you’re looking for traditional German cuisine accompanied by a local craft beer you really need to book your bierhaus in advance – the breweries were packed on Friday and Saturday and closed on Sunday. We managed to get into one at 5pm on Saturday (for 2 hours) but only because we were at the door when it opened at that time.
Phew! meat feast and herring at last! And a seat!!
The markets were very busy over the weekend. Apparently, Lubeck Market is hugely popular with the Danes who come across the border by the busload for better value.
Try the mushrooms with creme fraiche and the rosti with apple sauce!!! YUM!
And Marzipan! It’s a big deal here!
If you’re particularly interested in the city’s architecture then best not to coincide with the Xmas season! You can’t really get a feel for the buildings in the centre due to crowds and stalls.
A bit of Trivia to finish up on….
In 1375, Emperor Charles IV named Lubeck one of the Five Glories of the Empire – the others being Florence, Pisa, Rome and Venice – illustrious company indeed!
Such a wonderful guide to Lübeck! The mix of history, architecture, and Christmas market charm makes it feel truly magical. Loved the detail about the Holstentor and the courtyards, and of course, marzipan!
Sitting here at the laptop eating some of the marzipan – bought it for my son but no one in his house will eat it!!🤣
What a glorious city! Fascinating history too. I loved the little courtyards and cobbled streets in particular.
The courtyards are the best! Not all are accessible which is understandable. It’s not a bad time of year to explore actually – no one was sitting outdoors as we passed through.
Looks amazing. I’m surprised as to how much of the medieval town survived the air raids, or has been restored. I’m not sure about the Christmas market (I even skip around ours in St Helier) but I could happily tuck myself away in a quiet bar there with a good book.
Well then you could sit and read Thomas Mann – or would that be too melodramatic! He’s a local – won the 1929 Nobel prize for Literature!!
Yeah I don’t think so Marie 🙁
Visited many years ago and pleased to see it’s still delightful and still making marzipan.
Was there myself in 1979! But couldn’t remember much of it! Not even the marzipan!
Beautiful city. I spent 6 weeks in nearby Travemünde years ago. Took the ferry out of Lübeck to Copenhagen. I enjoy your blog!
My pal tells me we stayed in Travemunde in 1979! Rings NO bells whatsoever!!!
BTW… I was there in 1980. Back again with my wife around 2014.
Our paths almost crossed!!!
Lubeck is such a beautiful city, I really wanted to visit when I was in Hamburg but didn’t have time – I will have to go back 🙂
It’s easy enough to get to once you’ve made up your mind. I think you’d like it Hannah.
It looks beautiful and perfect for a city break some time, but maybe not at Christmas! Noted for the future however – thanks 🙂
If you’re not interested in the markets then it would make for a lovely day trip from Hamburg. The train system is great – you’d easily make it there for the morning walking tours around 11.00am. And Hamburg itself has lots to offer of course….
I’m not a Christmas market fan (nor Craft Fairs if I’m being honest) but your article and photographs have intrigued me and I should really like to visit Lubeck. That Gothic architecture always make me think of re-reading Wuthering Heights although I know that neither Germany nor the Hanseatic states had anything to do with the Brontes! Photos great as usual.
I know what you mean re markets! We actually go away with pals around the same time most years so it adds to the festivities and starts the Christmas season for us. Otherwise I wouldn’t bother. Yes – Heathcliff would fit right in! (although I’m not even remotely tempted to ever reread WH!!)
Such incredible architecture.
There are so many beautiful towns scattered across Europe – how they’ve managed to come through wars and still preserve the lovely buildings is amazing.
It looks amazing but perhaps too crowded for me. I love architecture and history but not mega crowds. Food looks good!
We went on Friday which wasn’t too bad so could look around in comfort and queues for food and drink were short enough. Saturday was a different story – we couldn’t move.
Wonder if the markets run all week?
What a charming city! I’d love to visit some European Christmas markets one day.
They’re nice for atmosphere all right but there’s a sameness about many of them. I’d the same rosti and apple sauce in Bremen ( I think!!) a few years back… That’s why we were delighted to come across the 2 indoor markets because we found bits that were not generally for sale on outdoor stalls.
Thanks for the tour. Love the courtyards too. And the Christmas markets sounds like an excellent way to get into the holiday spirit.
It’s a lovely weekend treat – less than 2 hours flight, and the combination of architecture and festive spirit is perfect at his time of year. I never go armed with my Christmas shopping list – that never works out – If I pick up a few things along the way then that’s a bonus!
Wonderful history and great photos. I love your photo of the spires. The Christmas Market looks fantastic. Great share Marie.
Thank you Suzette – glad you enjoyed😘
Had never heard anyone talk about or post about Lubeck before so reading your post was a treat, Marie. Lubeck looks like a charming city that I would be interested in exploring if and when we return to Germany sometime.
Like so many European countries, Germany has major attractions that take a few visits to cover – Munich, Berlin, the Rhine, Black Forest…. Lubeck would be well down the list but perfect for anyone spending a few days or more around Hamburg…
Thank you for the tour of the city. The Germans have taken great care to make their city centres pleasant places to visit. Even during my time in Luxembourg, I didn’t manage to visit Lübeck, which is a little out of reach for a weekend trip. But it could be a useful alternative to other Christmas markets.
It would be too long by road or rail for a short break from Luxembourg. But you had a great base there for southwest Germany. We’ve been to Trier / Mosel area but haven’t made it to Luxembourg yet..