VISITING SOUTH AFRICA? – YOU’RE JUST GOING TO LOVE CAPE TOWN!

Excuse me now while I wax lyrical…….

Before visiting Cape Town (January, 2024) I assumed all the hype was just – well…. hype! You know the cliches – South Africa’s crown jewel / breathtaking setting / postcard destination /the most naturally beautiful city on the planet / cultural melting pot / celebrated food, art and fashion / fabulous beaches and sunsets / great value …. nowhere can be that great!!

Well, I’m happy to eat my words ( far fewer calories for one thing, than I managed to consume on my trip!!) and assure those of you with the city on your radar that you’re going to love it.

South Africa is a long way from home for most of us. For those of you who balk at the notion of a long-haul trip – all that moving around from place to place in order to justify the distance and expense – I think you’ll be impressed by how much you can experience while anchoring yourself in Cape Town. The rest of you, planning on using it as a springboard for further touring in the country, will be raging (like we were!!!) that you didn’t allow more time for the city!

City Highlights

Table Mountain

South Africa’s most iconic landmark towers over the city and the plateau offers great paths and dramatic views. There are several hiking routes weaving up to the top but most visitors prefer the 5 minute ride in the cable car! Once on top, don’t let the crowds around the cable station spoil your mood – many visitors seem happy (despite queuing for yonks for the cable car) with a few selfies but the trails are not busy so try and allow a few hours to walk around and enjoy the experience.

Queuing is a problem – especially in high season – at the ticket office and again at the cable car. Try to buy online beforehand. A Return Ticket costs R420 morning or R360 afternoon (circa €21 / €17.50). BUT – if you can afford it – it’s worth splashing out on a Fast Track Ticket – Return R950 (€46.50). The cable car holds 65 people but the good news is that the floor ROTATES – so once you grab any window space you’ll be rewarded with the views.

Weather – specifically cloud cover or wind – is an issue. It’s worthwhile downloading the app which updates on weather and whether the cable cars are running or not. Tickets are valid for 7 days from purchase date. I’d suggest some flexibility during your visit to the city and – well – CARPE DIEM – if you can see the top of the mountain then get up there!!!

Heading up!

Views of the city, one of its beaches and Robben Island

Cant remember – but it must have been interesting at the time!!! (probably someone with a nice cold pint!!)

Robben Island Museum

From leper colony to insane asylum to penal colony, the island is most familiar to us as the maximum security prison of the Apartheid period. By 1996 the last of its prisoners had left and the island was declared a national monument , to be preserved as a memorial to those (including Nelson Mandela for 18 years) who were incarcerated here.

The island is open for tours which are often led by former prisoners who share their poignant, personal experiences during the walkabout.

You can only visit the island on a tour. The R600 Ticket (€30) includes a circa 30 minute ferry trip from the V&A Waterfront, a bus tour of the island and the guided walking tour of the prison. The whole experience takes about 3.5 hours. Try to book in advance as numbers are restricted and the more popular boat times can sell out quickly.

Bo-Kaap

This colourful neighbourhood has evolved into an Instagram hotspot and it’s a pity that so many visitors take their photos and leave without the slightest interest in the area’s cultural heritage. While there are great shops, cafes and art to enjoy (and photograph!), it’s well worth joining one of the many walking tours that will put the locality in context.

Bo-kaap dates back to the 1700s, when numerous huurhuisjes (rental houses) were built and leased to slaves initially brought in from Malaysia, Indonesia, and other parts of Africa. Despite their ethnical diversity, the new arrivals were known as Cape Malays and the neighbourhood became known as the Malay Quarter. Predominantly a Muslim community, the first mosque – Auwal Mosque – was built in 1794 (and is still in use today). The Malay Quarter continued to grow and became a hub for tradesmen of many ethnicities whose lives became intertwined and culturally integrated. During Apartheid, alas, non-Malay residents were forcibly removed and Bo-Kaap was declared a Muslims- only area.

The colourful buildings have been attributed to the fact that all houses had to be white. When the residents were eventually allowed to buy the properties, colours were introduced as a celebration of freedom.

Auwal Mosque – the 5 palm trees represent the 5 Pillars of Islam

Many houses have built-in seating out front – great for a chat with the neighbours!

And always Table Mountain …. don’t like the look of that cloud – glad we went up yesterday!

Victoria and Alfred (V&A) Waterfront

Built in the late 19th century by Queen Victoria’s second son, Alfred – South Africa’s oldest working harbour is today one of the country’s major tourist destinations. This hugely popular attraction boasts shops, restaurants, hotels, aquarium, canals, museums, theatres…. not to mention great views of Table Mountain and the bay. This is where you come for your whale- watching tour boat or the ferry to Robben Island.

The area has the added appeal of extra security so is safe to move about in daytime and nighttime alike. But while South Africa is represented here in the craft shops, buskers, (some) menus and the ever looming Table Mountain, there’s a sense that you could be anywhere on the planet. Cut off from the rest of the city, I felt it all to be rather disappointingly generic and without any real character. And I’m qualifying this by adding that we stayed here and ate here most of the time and had a ball!

V&A from Table Mountain

Markets

Who doesn’t love a market! The travel-weary among you might be hard to impress by now but I for one thought the quality and range of product excellent (for a change) and not badly priced….

Weekend markets have a great buzz – food and drink stalls, local produce, craft and souvenir products ….. But they’re BUSY!! Arrive early, have a look around, then grab a seat while you can and enjoy a coffee, an edible treat and the live musicians.

We’ll have this one!!

During the week, you’ll find stalls in the likes of Greenmarket Square in the city centre…

Watershed at the V&A Waterfront houses dozens of craft stalls by local South African artisans – you can do all your shopping here if stuck for time.

Food

Dining is a multicultural affair here and every palate and dietary need is catered for. You will probably sample some of the Cape Malay cuisine, seafood of course and perhaps some game meat if you are not going further afield. For those preferring to stay at the Waterfront at night, there’s a huge range on offer and while locals may balk at the prices, food is still great value by international standards. And even if you don’t venture out to dinner, you can still sample some great food at the markets. The epicures among you should try to book the more popular big named spots at least a few weeks in advance.

Bobotie – spiced minced-meat pie

Cape Malay Curry

Biltong is everywhere – a dried cured meat (akin to jerky but a different curing process), here it is in my salad

City Beaches

Not many major cities can boast several great beaches within a few kms of its centre. They can be crowded in high season of course but we’re talking white sand and crystal-clear water (all right – maybe a bit cold for most of us softies!). You can opt for a trendy party beach or a quieter family – friendly option. Or just stick to the palm-lined promenades and enjoy the views, restaurants and bars.

Day Trips from the City

Great and all as the city is, it really comes into its own with the range of day excursion options available to those who are not travelling beyond the region. Car rental is a preferred choice – allowing for the greatest flexibility – but organised escorted day trips are a worthy alternative…

Winelands

The famous Winelands region of the Western Cape is less than an hour’s drive from the city. It’s an easy journey to Stellenbosch or Franschchoek where you can enjoy lunch and wine tasting in one (or more!!!) of the 150+ wineries in the area.

Cape of Good Hope

Also about an hour’s drive away from the city is the Cape of Good Hope but you’ll definitely get distracted along the way. The peninsula drive brings you to Cape Point Nature Reserve via tempting beaches, charming towns ……and……penguins!!!

Entrance fee – Cape Point Nature reserve R400 (€20) per adult

Entrance fee – Boulder Beach (Penguins) R190 (€9.50) per person.

Parking can be a nightmare at Boulder Beach in high season. We arrived about midday but gave up and went on to the Nature Reserve, calling in on the penguins on our way back.

There are miles of walking trails in the reserve but most visitors are happy to pose at the sign and do a shorter cliff walk from there.

Safari

OK – it’s not Kruger – but I think it’s great that there are safari experiences to be enjoyed within a few hours of the city. Game reserves have helped reintroduce the Big Five to the Western Cape and it’s possible to opt for a day trip where you can partake in a traditional safari in an off-road vehicle.

Photos from our stay at Kariega Reserve

Whale Watching

Whale season typically runs from June to November when you will have the opportunity to join any number of tours which will bring you down along the coast and include a boat trip for an up-close encounter.

Sept and Oct are the best months for whale spotting

What we did – and didn’t – do

We had 5 nights /4.5 days which sounded LOADS at the time of booking!

Day 1

Arrive V&A Waterfront apartment early afternoon

Walkabout V&A / lunch / Booked Robben Island Ferry and Table Mountain / food shopping / dinner locally

Day 2

9.00am Robben Island Ferry and Tour

Back at V&A about 1.00p / Lunch

Clear day so taxi to Table Mountain for 3.00pm

Cable Car (fast track) / Walk / pint on Table Mt

Back to V&A for dinner etc….

Day 3

Red Bus at 9.20am

10.00am Free Walking Tour Bo-Kaap

12.00Bo-Kaap Museum and walkabout

12.30 Lunch in Faeeza’s Home Kitchen , Bo-Kaap (recommended by guide)

Red Bus to Camp Bay

Red Bus to Sea Point for smoothies in Mojo Market

Red Bus back to V&Afor dinner etc….

Day 4

9.00am Uber to collect rental car

Back at V&A – walk to Oranjezicht Saturday Market

Watershed Indoor Market, V&A

PM – Atlantic Coast Drive: Chapman’s Peak Drive (Toll) / Noordhoek Beach / Hout Beach for Seafood, Pints and Sunset!

Jayz it’s cold!!!!

V&A for nightcap

Day 5

Peninsula drive:

Muizenberg Beach Huts and then Kalk Bay for retail therapy and coffee

Boulders Penguin Colony ( too crowded – left)

Cape of Good Hope

Penguin Colony and then Fish Hoek Beach for swim

Last man down!!! Again!!!

V&A for dinner, etc

Day 6

Depart Cape Town for Winelands, Garden Route and Safari.

BUT………

We didn’t get to do the following …

District Six – my biggest regret…..

District Six was a diverse neighbourhood of the city until 1966 when it was declared a white area, leading to the eventual displacement of some 60,000 inhabitants and the bulldozing of many existing buildings. Most of the area still lies empty. The District Six Museum was established in 1994 with a collection created from personal artifacts of former residents.

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden – A huge favourite with visitors. It’s on the Red Bus route so easily accessible.

Woodstock Street Art Tour

Township Tour – not my thing to be honest but there are half-day walking tours available with tour groups or in cooperation with local communities.

Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art

So – How much Time???

If we’d had ONE more day, I’d have visited District 6 and probably opted for the Street Art Tour over the Botanical Garden – but that’s just me!

With TWO days – Probably go to the Botanical Garden in the morning and then spend the rest of the day at one of the city beaches.

So I’m saying 7 DAYS to see the city and Peninsula.

If you are considering the city as your base for the other South Africa experiences then you’ll need a day each (at least!!) for Winelands, Safari and Whale-Watching. Those days should be interspersed with city days… they are very tiring, even if you ARE being chauffeured everywhere..

You could do it in 10 DAYS – but 12 would be better!

But – be warned – No matter how long you plan on staying – IT WON’T BE LONG ENOUGH!!!!

Small Stuff

Where we Stayed

There’s every accommodation option available in the city from hostels to 5* luxury. Most visitors opt for the beach area or the V&A Waterfront.

Our Lawhill Apartment at V&A for 4 persons was booked as part of a package with Trailfinders.

Meeting the neighbours!!!

Positives:

Spacious and Clean – 2 bedrooms ensuite and a separate bathroom. Large kitchen and living area with balcony.

Washing machine in kitchen.

Supermarkets close by.

Convenient for Uber and Taxi pick ups. Very close to Red Bus stop.

Free parking once we collected our rental.

Niggly Bits:

Because we’d everything on our doorstep, we didn’t even try to head out at night and experience what was on offer beyond the restaurants and bars of V&A. I’m sure we missed so much…..

I’ve no itemised bill but this accommodation would definitely be beyond the budget of many visitors.

Verdict?

It was great – BUT – maybe I’d seriously consider checking out the accommodation around Sea Point or Camps Bay.

Getting Around

Uber is very cheap.

My CitiBus has several routes covering the city centre and beyond. Fare cards can be purchased at participating kiosks.

HOP ON – HOP OFF Red Bus offers various packages and visits the major sights around the city

Car Rental is a great option for exploring the greater area and the peninsula. Remember to drive on the left side of the road here! 

Money Stuff

The RAND is usually presented with a capital R symbol. In Jan, 2024, we calculated roughly R20 = €1

ATM’s are widespread and most businesses accept card payment.

Small change is useful for tips and markets – and especially for ‘car guards’ and petrol station attendants if you are driving.

Budget:

Obviously your biggest outlay will be flight, followed by accommodation. After that, the tourist attractions – Table Mt, Robben island, etc. – will put a sizeable hole in the wallet.

But then – food and drink (certainly by our standards) is cheap as chips – and we ate in tourist zones most of the time so didn’t get the best value. You’ll eat well for €10 (our most expensive main course was €22 for a seafood platter for TWO) and will very quickly get used to considering €2.50 expensive for a pint or a glass of wine. Tipping is usual and appreciated.

Health and Safety Stuff

Cape Town is malaria-free

Tap water is safe to drink.

Personal Safety: The city is generally considered safe for visitors although it is recommended you take an Uber after dark. There is extra security around the Waterfront area so is particularly popular with visitors at night. The usual precautions apply (as for any destination) – don’t flash valuables, heed advice from the tourist office or staff at your accommodation, don’t let anyone help you at an ATM, bring copies of all documents ……

Language

South Africa claims eleven (yep!) official languages. Xhosa, Afrikaans and English are the most common. Most people speak English and all signs are in English.

Mobile Phones

Get a SIM card upon arrival at the airport – you will mainly use it for directions, UBER, reservations, etc. (We usually just change one of our phones). The staff at the kiosks are always helpful and will change the card for you – get them to sellotape your original SIM to the back of your phone, inside it’s case.. It might be a tad more expensive at the airport but – it’s done and dusted and you don’t have to go hunting for a phone shop.

Time Zone

GMT+2 (so a long-haul trip with NO jet lag for us Europeans!!)

Woo Hoo!!!! Off with the flight compression socks!!! No jet lag but it did take 24 hours door to door!!!! (absolute exhibitionism yes – but in their defense the apartment wasn’t ready!!!)

Climate

Cape Town boasts a Mediterranean climate. Winters are mild and rainy but chilly winds blow in from the southeast. Summers are warm and sunny but humidity is quite low so it’s not muggy.

I know the advice is always to travel in shoulder months to avoid extreme heat and higher costs – BUT – being Irish, I can tell you that January was gorgeous – High 20’s thank you very much!!!!

Electricity

C, M and N outlets are used here. Make sure to invest in a travel adaptor before you fly…

Load-shedding (rolling blackouts) seems to be a way of life – typically lasting for 2 – 2.5 hours at a time. Your accommodation will inform you of the schedule. and then plan accordingly….

First Thursdays

On the first Thursday of every month, arts and culture in Cape Town has a late night so if you’re lucky enough to be in town you can enjoy (for free), dozens of live performances and gallery exhibitions.

Table Quiz Stuff!!

Cape Town was founded by the Dutch East India company in 1652. Being the first European modern settlement in South Africa, it became known as THE MOTHER CITY

The metro area covers 950 square miles and is home to 4.9 million people.

South Africa has three branches of government and a capital city for each. The administrative capital is Pretoria, the legislative capital is Cape Town and the judicial capital is Bloemfontein.

Table Mountain was included in the 2011 list of New 7 Wonders of Nature.

ROBBEN is from the Dutch word for SEAL

Travel Buddies Extraordinaire!