My Top 10 of Everything! – Treats you might miss around Trafalgar Square

No! Of course I don’t mean Nelson – or the fountains – or the galleries – or the entertainers – or the protesters! It would be hard NOT to notice them, wouldn’t it!! No – I’m thinking of the little things – those oddities you won’t see unless you go looking for them…..

1.Broken Bricks!

Did you know that Nelson’s Column is so symbolic of London that Hitler ordered that it not be bombed – he wanted to bring it back to Germany at the end of the war as a victory trophy.

If you look around the base of the column (after admiring the man himself of course!), you’ll notice some damaged granite. This dates from 1918 – not war damage but jubilant damage caused during Armistice celebrations. Crowds took to the streets and bonfires were set up on the steps of the Column. The fire was fed with anything that was available – war posters, bicycles, watchmen’s huts, and… wooden paving blocks, coved in tar. The blocks burned at such a high temperature they caused the stone to expand and crack.

2.Lions’ Claws

In 1858, painter Sir Edwin Landseer (who had never sculpted in his life), was commissioned to produce lions for the base of Nelson’s Column. Four years later, he was still at the design stage – studying and sketching the animals in London Zoo. He asked for a dead lion as a model but it took two years for one to oblige – at which point it was transferred to his studio. So slow was his progress that the paws had deteriorated beyond recognition by the time he got to that part of the sculpture –

And THAT’S why these famous lions have house cats‘ paws! Miaow!

3.The Standard Measures

In the (good!!) ol’ days, before we had iPhones, we actually had to physically measure something to gauge its dimensions… To ensure consistency, bronze plaques were installed around the city to help Londoners standardize their measurements, one such set being installed in Trafalgar Square in 1876. You’ll find the standard imperial measures on the wall and steps below the National Gallery.

4.The Tiny Police Station!

Isn’t this great! Originally an ornamental lamp, Scotland Yard hollowed it out in 1926 to monitor gatherings in the square. A single policeman could occupy the space but it would house two prisoners when necessary! Alas, it’s now used just for storage.

5.Chubby Cherubs

There are many lamp posts to admire about the city but the Trafalgar Square Cherubs must be the cutest adornment!

6.Zero Mile

There’s King Charles I, looking down towards Whitehall from atop his noble steed. This marks the official centre of London, from which all distances are measured. His presence there is not by design – he just happens to occupy the site of the original Charing Cross from which the measurements were traditionally taken. His real claim to fame is that of being Britain’s only executed monarch, having been beheaded before a crowd of spectators in 1649!

7.The Fourth Plinth

Three of the four plinths, located at the corners of the Square, contain figures from British history. The fourth plinth was intended for a statue of King William IV but remained empty due to a shortage of funds. Since 1998, the Fourth Plinth Project hosts a rotating exhibition of contemporary artworks and installations

The current piece of work by Teresa Margolles – Mil Veces Un Instante (A Thousand Times in an Instant) – is made up of plaster casts of the faces of hundreds of transgender, non-binary and gender non-conforming people and is a tribute to a transgender woman, murdered in Mexico in 2016.

8.Whipping Post

You’ll probably nip in to St-Martin-in-the-Fields on the corner of the square but make sure to visit the crypt where you will find a whipping post dating from 1752. There has been a church on the site since medieval times but Henry VIII rebuilt it in the 16th century – supposedly to stop all the annoying peasantry funerals (particularly plague victims!) that were constantly passing by his nearby palace!

In 1530, Henry passed the Whipping Act – vagrants would be tied to the end of a cart naked, and whipped til his body be bloody. Under Elizabeth I, whipping posts replaced the carts.

While you’re there – The Crypt Cafe is a great spot for lunch or a coffee

9.A Conversation with Oscar Wilde

On nearby Adelaide street, you’ll find Maggi Hambling’s A Conversation with Oscar Wilde (1998). Wilde emerges from a green granite sarcophagus, with a smile and a mad head of hair. He is holding a cigarette (which has been repeatedly stolen ever since!!). The coffin serves as a bench – so you can sit and hold that conversation with him while contemplating the inscribed words….

We are all in the gutter but some of us are looking at the stars

(Lady Windermere’s Fan)

10.The Great Storm Tree

In October, 1987, the ‘Great Storm’ tore through London, knocking 250,000 of the city’s trees. The Evening Standard newspaper raised £60,000 to plant new trees in each of London’s 32 boroughs and the City of London. This English oak at Charing Cross Station was planted a year after the storm. A nearby plaque details the events while a second plaque honours Angus McGill – the columnist who spearheaded the project.

The treasure hunt above is probably really for the return visitor – ye first timers will have to whizz through the square and on to the next site on your list. Which is a pity…. there’s lots more to see around the square itself, quirky side streets to explore nearby and you still have to visit the gallery!

Before you go….

There’s one very notable omission from my top 10 – it didn’t make the list because I couldn’t find it on the day, much to my disgust and disappointment…..

In the National Gallery, seek out An Allegory with Venus and Cupid by Agnolo Bronzino. It was painted for King Francis I of France in the 16th century. Roll on a few centuries and Terry Gilliam was in the Gallery – seeking ideas for Monty Python sketches. Cupid’s foot, in the corner of the painting, caught his eye and inspired the massive stomping foot which comes down from the heavens and squashes whatever is happening below….

My directions were for Room 8 but that is given over to the Van Gogh exhibition at the moment so not open to the general public without a ticket (and completely booked out of course!). I didn’t think to ask whether the painting had been relocated to another room – Ah well – hope you have better luck!

37 thoughts on “My Top 10 of Everything! – Treats you might miss around Trafalgar Square

    1. I usually get to London once per year but most of the trip is devoted to family visits. I try to find one new place to explore each time. But on this occasion we were particularly strapped for time so I picked an area we’d been in before to concentrate on and had my list ready… and it mostly worked out!

  1. Fascinating stuff. Come out of the crypt, head right (away from the Square) into a half pedestrianised street, turn left (away from Charing Cross station), cross the street ahead and walk straight through the door of The Harp, one of my favourite old London pubs…..Cheers!

    1. I can picture most of the route – but not the pub!!! It’s great to get a good tip for the city centre – especially when so many eateries and pubs are tourist based… Is it an Irish pub by any chance? Based on the name…?

    1. What a great location to stay in! It would be lovely to wander about at night, and handy to go back to for a break during the day. We usually pick a hotel further out and then seem to spend forever on the underground!

  2. Wow! You certainly did your homework for this exercise and I was delighted to read so much that I didn’t know. The Landseer bit is particularly useful to pass on to children and keep them amused and even, perhaps, stimulate them to look away from their screens to listen. Top marks for a truly interesting article.

  3. Good looking pictures been there drove with my car lol!! now maybe you can answer this one what is the best way to go from Brittany to Dublin by car? Thanks, Cheers

    1. We’ve driven in many cities but never London! Thankfully have never had the need!!

      Brittany to Dublin….

      I suppose it depends on what part of Brittany? If its over to the west, then the Roscoff – Cork Ferry is an option. Its then about 3 hour drive to Dublin.

      Irish Ferries sails from Cherbourg to Dublin and is the most common crossing – you will probably have a few hours drive from Brittany but at least you arrive directly into Dublin.

      Stena go Cherbourg / Rosslare but then you have a two hour drive.

      If the schedule suits I’d opt for Cherbourg-Dublin with Irish Ferries

  4. As a Londoner I knew most of these little treasures (the Oscar Wilde sculpture and quote is a particular favourite of mine) but the info about the granite blocks was new to me. I’ll check them out next time I’m passing through the square!

    1. Seems to have been a bit controversial at the time of installation but I love the statue – and the idea of sitting there and chatting with him!!

  5. Marie, this is a brilliant and captivating tour through Trafalgar Square’s hidden gems and quirky history! Your ability to weave humor, historical anecdotes, and vivid descriptions into a delightful treasure hunt is inspiring. I particularly loved the story behind the lions’ “house cat paws” and the whimsical tiny police station! Bravo!

    1. Ah thank you Michael! Isn’t it amazing what can be discovered in the smallest of areas – it was particularly brought home to me during covid, the lovely little landmarks we came across in our own village and backroads…

      1. Yep – that sums it up all right!!! (But isn’t it always great!!) 👨‍👩‍👦👨‍👩‍👦👨‍👩‍👦👨‍👩‍👦👨‍👩‍👦👨‍👩‍👦👨‍👩‍👦😅

  6. I’m a Londoner by birth, albeit that I left nearly 50 years ago. Back in the day I did go to Trafalgar Square on occasions and thought it rather tedious. What did I know? Great Monty Python story, I didn’t know that either!

    1. We usually tear through the place ourselves – more often than not, absolutely exhausted after trekking around all day! So we’d never given it much thought either! Imagine how impressed you’d be if I HAD managed to see the painting!!😅

  7. I love how you’ve uncovered the hidden gems around Trafalgar Square that many people might miss on their first visit. From the quirky history behind the broken bricks at Nelson’s Column to the charm of the chubby cherubs on the lamp posts, your post really brings a fresh perspective to this iconic spot. The tiny police station and the whipping post are especially fascinating – they add so much depth to the area’s rich history. I can’t wait to explore these lesser-known treasures on my next visit to London! Thanks for sharing these fun and unexpected details!

    1. Thank you Anna – Once I got the idea, I really enjoyed unearthing the list of possibles! Most of them appear to be quite commonly known (although not to me beforehand!!). Of course I didn’t complete my research properly – I should have spent a bit more time actually working out a logical route – but I jotted down everything I wanted to find on a scrap of paper and then had to zigzag all over the place to find them!!

    1. Than you for this – I enjoyed the read…. Not mad about the piece (and must agree with the author re the example here in Dublin’s Merrion square!) but I’d be tempted to seek it out some time…

  8. A Conversation with Oscar Wilde

    Sitting on that granite bench, the smoke curled lazily between us.
    “What year is this?” Oscar asked, cigarette poised, eyes twinkling.

    “2025,” I said. “We’ve traded wit for algorithms and gossip for hashtags.”

    He grinned. “Hashtags! How deliciously absurd. Are they scandalous?”

    “No, mostly cat videos.”

    He exhaled slowly. “Every century needs its decadence. Yours just seems… fluffier.”

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