If you’ve been to Ireland, you’ve probably been to Kerry – BUT – If you’ve been to Kerry, you mightn’t have had time to explore the north of the county. This drive will take you along Ireland’s famous WILD ATLANTIC WAY – the world’s longest coastal tourist route at circa 2,750 km (1,700 miles) in length. Don’t panic! – we’re not going far today… a round trip of about 120kms – but there are plenty of walk options so one could easily while away a full day.
TRALEE gets nothing like the attention of Dingle, Kenmare and Killarney but the county’s capital has its own charm and has worked up its tourist attractions over the years. There are lots of family-based activities here as well as a lively pub scene.
BLENNERVILLE WINDMILL is the largest working windmill in the country. Constructed in 1800, it was rendered obsolete within decades but was restored in the 1980’s. It offers seasonal tours which include videos, exhibitions, model railway, a tour of the structure and of course you’ll learn how flour is made!
This was actually the site of a famine emigrant port and the Jeanie Johnson made her maiden voyage from here to Quebec in 1848 carrying 193 passengers. The ship would make 16 transatlantic trips, carrying some 2,500 Irish emigrants, during the Famine years. The Windmill Visitor Centre includes an Emigration Display.
The Jeanie Johnson is moored in Dublin Docks – it’s worth doing the excellent guided tour if you’re ever in Dublin….
TRALEE BAY WETLANDS ECO & ACTIVITY PARK has lovely walks around its lakeside and wild gardens.
The 3km TRALEE CANAL WALK follows the old ship tow path from the town to the bay.
You’ll find BALLYSEEDY WOODS just a few kms outside town. Extending to almost 80 acres, the woodland area has several marked trails along which you’ll come across native trees, a number of ruins and the River Lee (from which Tralee takes its name).
As we leave town, the Wild Atlantic Way brings us along by TRALEE BAY with its views of the SLIEVE MISH MOUNTAINS (might need a bit of imagination today!!
Our first stop after Tralee is lovely FENIT BEACH. Sheltered and sandy, it is hugely popular in summer. The harbour here claims to be the most westerly commercial port in Europe. Fishing was a big deal here in the 1970’s but EU quota limits and competition from larger European fleets has inflicted huge damage to the industry.
A causeway leads from the beach out to the harbour and Great Samphire Island. Climb to the top to see St Brendan the Navigator. He was probably born in the area and his main claim to fame is the possibility of his arrival in the Americas before Christopher Columbus himself! (In the 1970’s, explorer and historian Tim Severin demonstrated that Brendan could have potentially reached North America in a leather-clad boat – The Brendan Voyage became an international bestseller). From here, you’ve a fine view of the 1851 lighthouse over on Little Samphire Island.
St Brendan’s isn’t the only interesting story around here….. In 1588, Nuestra Señora del Socorro – part of the ill fated Spanish Armada – anchored here and surrendered. The crew of 24 were taken to Tralee and all were hanged. In more recent times, Fenit was the scene of a major seaborne landing in 1922, during the Irish Civil War, when 450 Free State troops arrived as part of an offensive to retake Kerry from the Republicans.
We veer inland to the village of ARDFERT to look at the Cathedral. The villagers here also lay claim to Brendan the Navigator…. He founded a monastic settlement on this site in the 6th century – before he headed off to the USA I presume! The 12th century cathedral must have been SO impressive with its Romanesque doorway and magnificent window. It still is! It was damaged in a series of rebellions in the 16th and 17th centuries but managed to continue functioning until fire destroyed it during the 1641 uprising. It was abandoned for a while but parts were rebuilt and it served the local Protestant congregation until a replacement was built in the 1870’s. There are two smaller churches on the site – perhaps for regular use with the cathedral being reserved for special occasions.
If you feel the need for a decent walk then BANNA STRAND might do – it’s 10km stretch, backed by sand dunes, should blow away a few cobwebs!
The main claim to fame here dates back to the 1916 Rising. Irish revolutionary leader Roger Casement spent time in Germany looking for support without much success so decided to return and prevent the rebellion from taking place. He was landed from a German U-boat at Banna but was quickly captured. He was brought to London, tried for treason at the Old Bailey, and hanged in August 1916 – the 16th, and last, of the leaders to be executed.
We continue along the Wild Atlantic Way – passing through the village of BALLYHEIGUE and on through some surprisingly fertile land. This is farming country – a lot of cattle! We haven’t travelled far of course, so the Slieve Mish Mountains are still in our rear view…
We arrive at the resort town of BALLYBUNION. Golfers will be familiar with its famous links course but most visitors head for the rest of the sand! The town boasts not one but two beaches – Men’s Beach and Lady’s Beach – divided by the castle…..
Evening is setting in (it’s only 4.30pm but that’s November in Ireland for you!). We still have time for a quick cliff walk up around the headland….
Our route continues along the SHANNON ESTUARY where Ireland’s longest river meets the Atlantic….
CARRIGAFOYLE CASTLE was known as the Guardian of the Shannon due to its strategic location overlooking the shipping lanes that supplied Limerick City. The castle was probably built in the 1490s by Conor Liath O’Connor – a local chief who sent his men out to board passing vessels and demand a percentage of the value of their cargo before letting them pass.
The failing light means this is as far as we go……
It’s time to call it a day…..
Tralee -> Fenit Beach, 13kms
Fenit -> Ardfert, 11kms
Ardfert -> Banna Strand, 5.5kms
Banna -> Ballyheigue, 8kms
Ballyheigue -> Ballybunion, 25kms
Ballybunion -> Carrigafoyle, 16kms
Carrigafoyle -> Tralee, 42kms
You don’t have to stay in Tralee – it’s a very doable day trip from Killarney or Dingle…..
For Killarney add 38kms each way
For Dingle – add 50kms each way
There is such a density of history in Ireland, sometimes hard to guess, sometimes so obvious with the ruins left from the past to explore.
There is indeed – and you can be sure, where there is uncertainty, the void will be filled with a great story!!!
Wish I’d had these years ago when we toured Ireland, but then, my husband kept going back to places where they’d served him buttered fruit cake. Buttered cake? He thought he’d died and gone to heaven. So, routes to be followed continually got discarded as we meandered off the beaten track, but then, that’s what travel is all about, isn’t it? Great post, hope the weather isn’t keeping you indoors!
My mum did the BEST fruit cake for buttering!!! And the thicker the butter, the better!!!
Its actually difficult to plan a day’s drive here – because there’s never enough time to see everything – as you know, you’re definitely going to wander off course when a sign catches your eye.
I’m just in home – miserable with the cold… 1.5 degrees but there’s a wind chill on top of that….actually thinking of making a hot whiskey for myself!!!
Definitely make the whiskey drink!
So many beautiful photos, Marie. It’s been a good few years since I visited Tralee. It’s a truly beautiful place to visit as they have many beautiful blue flag beaches, Ireland’s largest working windmill and not to mention The Rose of Tralee Festival which takes place every August. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
We were the same – don’t know when last we were in Tralee! And I’ve no memory at all of Ballybunion – I think this was my first time there – Tom spent a lot of holidays there as a child so was sending photos of the beach to his brothers…
Hope weather not too severe in Sligo – really cold here but dry….
Magnificent photos Marie, I’ve only been to Dublin. I also have a photo of those starving immigrant sculptures. Pretty horrific and a truly terrible time. Looks like you had or are having a lovely trip.
We’d a lovely few days Alison. Tom was heading to Killarney for a meeting – we’d painters in doing up the house so I decided I’d escape with him – I couldn’t stand all the open windows and doors! I holed up in his bedroom with a book and was delighted with myself! And then we’d our nice drive on the way home….
Beautiful photos! Well shared with good description 👍👍
Thank you Priti – glad you enjoyed…..
✋
An excellent guide to what looks like a lovely drive 🙂 The beaches look beautiful and I love the sculpture of St Brendan the Navigator as well as the cathedral ruins.
I’d plenty more planned but just ran out of daylight… We’d a lovely time and it was years since we’d been in the area so it was lovely to revisit. The coastline is famous for its beaches but we’d only time for the shortest of walks….
Thank you! This was a really interesting tour!
You can inform and entertain at the same time!
The photos show a beautiful region and your stories make it even more beautiful.
Maybe I’ll get there one day 🙂
Thank you so much ….I hope you get here sometime!!! And remember- this is just the tiniest little part of the country – imagine how beautiful the rest of it is!!!!
Great post!
Thanks John – It was a week ago today – we were so lucky with the weather – it’s bad there today…
Thank you for this extensive tour!
Glad you enjoyed – I honestly thought I’d have more to write about but, typically, we dawdled too much early in the day and then ran out of time… Summer time would offer up another 5-6 hours of light so definitely a better time of year for touring!!
It’s beautiful Marie, I really do need to explore more of Ireland, there’s just so much to see, do and learn 😊
You’ll make it here eventually Hannah!!!!
I always feel like I betray Cork when I account Kerry as my favourite county. Tralee and Benner’s Hotel I know of old – the hotel was always cosy though it looks like it has gone upmarket in recent times. Well worth a stop for a day or two before rushing on to Killarney/Dingle.
We rediscovered Kerry during covid – having neglected it for decades….. we’d forgotten how beautiful it is and it really is a great spot for a holiday. I was surprised at how much there was to see in the north of the county..
Hope Storm Darragh has bypassed you there Roy!