Slovenia – Mountain to City to Sea – a bit of everything in a Week

It does’t have to be a week of course – you’d see a lot over a long weekend – or come and stay forever! You can visit many tourist highlights as daytrips from Ljubliana but it’s always nice to have a sleepover isn’t it. The distances on this itinerary aren’t huge and it’s all on public transport – which is cheap as chips !

I’ve just posted separately about Ljublyana and won’t repeat. The public bus (€3.30) takes about 50 mins from the airport and then its about 10 mins walk to the Old Town. You’d easily manage a walkabout in one day followed by dinner and a pint of Union along the riverbank!

Back to the bus station and off to BLED – a ticket costs €5-6 (based on time) and the journey takes about 90 minutes, depending on traffic heading out of the city.

In a meadow valley there was a small hill and a rock, where mountain fairies danced at night. Shepherds grazing their sheep here were asked by the fairies to put a fence around their dance area, so that the grass would remain soft. The shepherds ignored the request and, one day, the youngest and most beautiful fairy broke her leg while dancing. The angry fairies called upon the springs and brooks to storm the valley and fill it with water. Only the hill with the rock remained as an island in the middle of the lake, where fairies could still dance on starry nights.

Bled shouldn’t be rushed – so I take back what I said about day trips!! If you’re not into extensive hiking in this alpine area then 2 – 3 days will comfortably allow the following……..

Walk around the Lake

The 6km circular path is an easy flat walk but you’d still need to allow maybe 2 hours for regular stops to admire the views and enjoy a beer or coffee along the way.

Pletna Trip out to Bled Island

A PLETNA is a wooden flat-bottom boat, designed according to the concept of the Venetian gondola. The boats are made locally and fit about 18 passengers. The title of PLETNAR – oarsman – was handed down from generation to generation so the profession remained in individual families.

When there are enough people in the boat to warrant the trip, the Pletnar casts off and rows with two oars while standing. The journey to the island takes about 20-25 minutes – allowing 45 minutes on the island before the return journey.

Once on the island (the only natural island in Slovenia), a 99 step staircase leads up to the lovely Gothic Church of the Assumption. However, after paying €20 for the boat trip, many (including ourselves!) forego the €12 entrance to the church and just enjoy the views and an ice cream or coffee.

Future bridegrooms take note! If you carry your bride up all 99 steps and ring the church bell, you are guaranteed a marriage of eternal happiness and good fortune!

You can forgo the Pletna experience in favour of making your own way to the island. Rowboats, kayaks and canoes are all available for rent while stand-up paddleboarding has become hugely popular in recent years.

Follow the trail through Soteska Vintgar

Unless you’re a day tripper, you are going to head out to Vintgar Gorge at some stage for a walk along its wooden walkway. It’s just 4kms from town so very accessible by foot if you want to make a day of it. Most of us though, opt for the shuttle which runs about every 30 minutes (Shuttle + Entrance €15). It will take about 45 minutes to complete the walkway – allowing for photo stops, etc. Then you have several options – you can double back the way you came, head off walking back to town, or follow a circular path which will bring you back through forest to the carpark and shuttle. That option will take you about 90 minutes in total.

Climb up to Blejski Grad

A castle has looked out over the lake since the 11th century. It looks great from below and equally offers wonderful views from its courtyards and parapets. A path and road lead up from the lake. An entrance ticket (rather pricey at €18) includes access to the fortress as well as a good museum, exhibitions, church, cellar, etc. If you time it right, you might manage to grab a table overlooking the lake and enjoy a coffee and slice of Bled Cake while admiring the Pletnars at work, far below.

Go for a swim.

The lake is unusually fed by spring water rather than a river or stream. Some of these springs are geo-thermally heated, resulting in the lake water being relatively warm and suitable for swimming.

There are several designated swimming spots around the lake. If you are planning for a full day’s activity then Grajsko kopališče lies just below the castle and has the best facilities – a large grassy beach and playground, as well as amenities such as changing rooms, showers, and a restaurant. But there are plenty of free options for a quick dip elsewhere on the lake.

Be seduced by Kremsnita!

Cream, vanilla custard, puff pastry – what’s not to love!!!

Imagine 1953 in the Park Hotel where confectioner Istvana Lukacevic is slaving away in the kitchen. And then one day he perfects his cream cake! His wonderful recipe has remained under lock and key ever since so – while Bled Cake can be sampled all over town, it has never been exactly duplicated – you have to go to the Park Hotel to sample the real thing!!

What we did….

Day 1. Arrive lunchtime / afternoon walk around lake.

Day 2. Morning Vintgar Gorge / Afternoon Pletna trip to Bled island

Day 3. Morning Visit castle / Afternoon swim

Day 4. Bye, Bye, Bled

Back at Ljubljana Bus Station, we spend €2.90 each on tickets to Koper (90 mins) and the same again to the coastal town of PIRAN (45mins).

Wedged between Italy and Croatia, Slovenia’s short coastline is of huge strategic and economic importance to the country but the 47km long Slovenian Riviera is also a significant tourist attraction for domestic and international visitors alike.

Piran flourished as a commercial and cultural centre under the Venetians. Today, it is undoubtedly Slovenia’s most beautiful coastal town and what better way is there to finish off a trip than wander a few cobbled streets, swim in the Adriatic and enjoy a seafood feast!

Wandering the streets…..

That’s St. George’s Cathedral above the town – it’s fine in itself but people mostly head up for the views over the rooftops and the remains of the fortifications.

Below us is Tartini Square – named after the violinist and composer Giuseppe Tartini.

Back down in the square, you can admire Giuseppe, the Town Hall and Venetian House while relaxing with a coffee – or something a bit stronger!

Beyond the square lies a warren of cobbled alleyways in one direction and the small port and extended promenade in the other…

Swim in the Adriatic

The Pearly Adriatic it might well be but forget about sandy beaches – at best you’re looking at a rocky shoreline with concrete platforms and sea access by ladders. And Boy! Is every patch utilised…

This was in June – pre peak season!!!!

Allow me to digress and fly the Irish flag here!!!!! Just LOOK at what we have (OK – so we don’t have the weather!!!!)

You can follow the promenade to neighbouring Portoroz where a circa 30 minute walk will bring you to a man made beach which might be more to your liking….

Finally! Just imagine the seafood!

Need I say more!!

31 thoughts on “Slovenia – Mountain to City to Sea – a bit of everything in a Week

  1. Wow, so much to love, except the Sunbeds on the rocks, which I wouldn’t use anyway. I dont think I’ve seen pictures of
    Vintgar Gorge before. The gorge looks as impressive as the views.! Beautiful post. Maggie

    1. The gorge is a nice diversion away from the lake but without a lot of effort to get there. I cant do rocks! Or even a towel on the sand at this stage of my life! We walked almost to the next village and paid for beds and umbrella at a smaller private set up. I hate paying for them – if we’d been staying for longer we’d have bought cheap chairs in a supermarket. Imagine the place in August!!

  2. I loved Bled. I do not like custard, so I did not love Kremsnita. The walk through the Vintgar Gorge was a highlight, although when I visited, the path was one way only, and I could not go back the way I had come (which would have been much easier.) Thank you for bringing back memories of a very special long weekend in Bled.

    1. I’m ok with custard – but I ADORE cream!!!! So was very happy!
      And you’re RIGHT about thee gorge. We met several coming towards us as we walked – luckily it wasn’t too busy – so I assumed they knew what they were doing. But it IS one way ( I’ve just checked!). It would certainly be easier than than back through the forest – although I do like loops!

  3. Beautiful photos Marie, looks like you had an amazing time. We also spent 2 nights in Bled and absolutely loved it. The cream cake with the view over the lake was a highlight! We visited in March so there was barely anyone there, but the Gorge was closed – we really must return to see it!

    1. Glad we finally got there. Very relaxing – even with public transport! As for the fairies – even as I was typing, the story resonated with the origins of Lake Titicaca which I wrote about last year!! – I think all lakes have been formed by fairies or tearful Gods!!! (Roy, I’m still catching up on a backlog so your posts from the past few months are still very much in my in box, awaiting attention!)

    1. It has a bit of everything hasn’t it…. WE were always going to combine Ljubljana and Bled but the few days at the coast were just lovely – especially after all the walking of teh previous days….

  4. Hi Marie, uncannily good timing to read this useful information. We’re currently in Siena, moving on to Trieste tomorrow (Friday 19th) and then on to Ljubljana on Tuesday. We then have a week to explore the city, Lake Bled, and a few other places in Slovenia. Have added your information to our to do list!

    1. SO sorry only getting to this now – hope you having a great time – I’m sure the summer visitors have thinned out but you still getting the good weather…

      1. Well Marie our route since Siena was Trieste-Ljubljuana-Bled. We’re still in Bled, moving on today. So we’ve been to similar places as you. Bled is absolutely beautiful, not really ready to move on. Weather? Well no…Ljubljana and Bled we’ve had a LOT of rain (especially Ljubljana) but we’re absolutely loving Slovenia despite that 😀

      2. Ah – bad luck with that weather!!! You’d hope Sept would be ok… but I know it’s beautiful despite that… I just mentioned on your own post that its absolutely years since we were in Siena – possibly 2003 but not certain …. but I AM sure it was 15the August because they were practicing for the Palio the following day!!!

  5. Slovenia is high on our travel list. My husband’s aunt and uncle recently took a trip there and raved about having a wonderful time. Bled looks lovely. Seems like there’s a lot of great options to enjoy the natural scenery.

    1. You’d love the trails and parks… we really just did the minimum but now that we know it’s so accessible sure we might get back sometime.

  6. I thought of doing a trip like this in the 80s, but then the war wiped out those plans. But your wonderful photos and description make me think of those old plans again.

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