Never meet your heroes and never go back...
Alas, I think it might be true!
I wrote the following in March, 2019, as part of an alphabetical journey (it was a very enjoyable exercise actually)
F is for FCC
‘Of all the gin joints in all the towns….’ If I had to choose one spot for a sundowner, out of all the places I’ve ever been, I wouldn’t opt for a cocktail overlooking a glorious tropical beach or an iconic natural landmark. No. I’m heading back to Phnom Penh.
By the time of our visit in 2009 (I can’t believe it was 10 years ago!) the Foreign Correspondent’s Club was way past its glory days. Founded in 1993 as a haunt for the growing number of expat journalists that were there to cover the peace settlement, it was still however an iconic landmark in the city. The 3 storey French colonial building oozed history and atmosphere with wooden ceiling fans and photos of Cambodia’s turbulent past.
Converted into a hotel, we spent 3 nights there which gave us an advantage over those visitors just dropping in for a drink. Each evening, we’d head upstairs, grab 2 of those cool chairs with FCC worked into the metalwork, and commandeer a spot at the front of the roof terrace.
It was a sociable place – hotel guests and visitors swapped stories about their travels while locals and expats offered advice about the city.
As the sun set over the Tonle Sap river in front of us, we’d sip our cocktails and enjoy the spectacle on the street below…. monks, tourists, expats, tuk tuks and thousands of scooters all swarming in every direction. Most of those scooters carried more than just the rider – they were laden with boxes, bags and baskets piled high or tied to the sides. If there was no cargo of goods then there were passengers – usually at least 2 along with the rider but we spotted several families of 4 or 5 – dad, mum and children comfortably balanced along with the shopping bags and school satchels. Traffic light changes were the best – a surge of scooters and tuk tuks pulling away with deafening engine noise and a chorus of horns.
Recent reports suggest the the FCC has nowadays deteriorated into a somewhat shabby tourist trap. So, on second thoughts, I’d probably pass on a chance to go back – better to live with memories than face disappointment. Maybe I’ll just head to a tropical beach for that sundowner after all!
Well there was no way I was ever going to visit the city again and not seek the place out! So the week before last found us walking through the Riverside Park (with perhaps overly inflated expectations!) en route to the site.
And ‘site‘ it is!!!! Literally!
Pretty sure this is the corner….
NNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!
Don’t know why I’m smiling!!! (maybe the heat getting to me!!!)
Renovations have been going on for years apparently. There are big plans afoot for a new hotel etc. but, from what we could gauge, the facade is being preserved at least….
Ah well…. next time maybe!!!!
A good example of why we’re often reluctant to go back (Paris excepted). When we were in Phnom Penh in 2019 the FCC had already closed for renovation. So we changed our plans and instead enjoyed great cocktails and views from the top floor terrace of the building to the right of your photo (the one below ‘Pretty sure this is the corner….’) I hope you found an adequate alternative too?
Imagine it’s been closed since then – allowing for Covid and whatever, there doesn’t seem to be a lot happening at the moment. I know the spot you’re talking about! it being mid morning, we passed on the terrace and cocktails and settled for smoothies downstairs!!
Ah yes – we were here early evening so cocktails appealed!
🍸🍹🧉
Sometimes you just can’t go back. Too bad, I wonder if it will ever reopen. Maggie
I hope it does – it’s quite the eyesore at the moment –
My first thought was of the FCC in Siem Reap; I hope its Art Deco style survives the financial greed of some business groups, which is to the detriment of the rest of the population.
FCC Siem Reap is still on the go I think – haven’t visited it though…. We couldn’t get proper look but I think the facade is still intact to a certain degree – it being the landmark that it is, they might be under pressure to preserve it – I hope!
We went to the Phnom Penh FCC in November and only stayed for one drink. We didn’t love it that’s for sure.
Was it open then?
No it wasn’t, I had muddled it up sorry. We went to a rooftop across the road for a drink and didn’t love it.
Ah I think that’s where Sarah went for her cocktail!
I think we were there about 2019 – I’d have to check old itineraries to be dure of the date! – and were lucky to grab a drink and a meal there, too. I don’t remember the FCC on the chairs however. I bought a t-shirt to remember the iconic bar. I hope future visitors will also have a great time once it’s renovated. You’re right – sometimes, it’s best NOT to go back!
The chairs were my favourite part! – I hope they’re in storage somewhere….