Meeting the Komodo Dragon!

There have been occasions (not too many though) when a travel destination has left me a tad underwhelmed. I had VERY high expectations this time – and (rest assured!) – the experience was as good as hoped for!

Getting to the Komodo Islands sounds more complex than it actually is. From Dublin, it means two flights to Indonesia and one domestic to Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores. 13,100kms is a long way to go – even for dragons – so it makes sense to include it as part of an extended trip. We joined G Adventures for 21 days through Java, Bali and Komodo, finishing up back in Bali for a few days on our own before heading home.

So what’s the big deal about the Komodo Islands?

The Komodo Dragon – the world’s largest lizard – once lived across a huge range, spanning Indonesia and Australia. Since the 1970s, it has only been found in the Komodo Islands. Nowadays, fewer than 3,500 remain – present only on five islands. Four of these islands make up Komodo National Park, and the fifth island is Flores. The largest number of the creatures are found on the aptly named Komodo Island.

Komodo National Park was established in 1980 and officially designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991.

Getting There ….

Most visitors make their way to the port town of Labuan Bajo on the western side of Flores island. We thought we were special until we got to Denpasar Airport (Bali)!!! In August, there were 656 flights into Labuan Bajo – that’s 22 per day!! They are mostly from domestic airports but also from Singapore and Kuala Lumper. From Bali, flight time is circa 90 minutes.

It’s possible to go by sea via Lombok but it’s not an easy option.

Then What….

There are different ways to experience the National Park. You can base yourself on Flores (which we did) and make day trips out to the national park. There are also a few resorts out on the smaller islands closer to the Park. Otherwise, you can venture out on a multi-day boat journey – there are dozens of boats offering a range of facilities and suiting every budget but all pretty much offering the same excursions.

Traditional two-masted Phinisi boats offer multi-day trips

How the other half lives!!!!

How Long

Unless you’re interested in extensive diving etc, 3-4 days is sufficient to visit the dragons on 2 islands and enjoy a range of water-based activities the rest of the time. Schedules are prone to change – the harbour master is God here and has the final say – so a few days flexibility is wise.

Visiting the Dragons….

Komodo National Park access is by boat only. The journey, by speedboat from Labuan Bajo, takes circa 90 minutes.

A strict daily visitor limit of 1,000 people is implemented as part of the government’s effort to reduce overcrowding and protect the park’s ecosystem.

Walk-in visits are not available – visitors must pre-book their entry permit via the official e-ticketing app or through a licensed tour operator.

All treks on Komodo and Rinca islands require an official, trained naturalist guide.

Packages from Labuan Bajo include boat transfers, permits, ranger fees and snorkelling equipment so offer the most practical and hassle free option.

It’s best to visit in early morning when the dragons are most active – as temperatures climb during the day, they retreat into the shade.

Once landed and registered, there’s a health and safety briefing before the guide and spotters bring their group on a walkabout – typically 90 minutes or so. The pace is leisurely – the group stopping whenever there is something to be seen – so not a lot of distance is covered beyond the mooring area and village. Encounters are controlled, with the guide and spotters dictating the route and distance maintained from the animals.

What we Learn….

*The Komodo Dragon (Varanus Komodoensis) belongs to the Monitor Lizard family.

 *It is the largest extant species of lizard, with males growing up to 3 metres and weighing up to 150 kg. Its tail is as long as its body and skin is reinforced with armoured scales. It has about 60 serrated teeth and a long forked tongue. It has an estimated life span of up to 30 years.

*They are the apex predators in their ecosystem (meaning they have no natural enemies). The young eat small prey – insects, eggs and small reptiles – while adults eat carrion and hunt deer, pigs and water buffalo.

What’s on the menu today?

*They hunt in the afternoon, hiding near trails and waiting quietly for suitable prey. When attacking, they sink their teeth deep into the flesh and use powerful neck muscles to shake violently, creating deep wounds that cause massive blood loss.They possess venom glands that secrete toxic proteins which stop the victim’s blood from clotting – dropping its blood pressure rapidly and forcing the animal into shock. The dragon then tracks the wounded animal until it collapses. They enjoy their prey by tearing large chunks of flesh and swallowing them whole. They can eat an impressive 80% of their body weight in a single feeding and slow metabolism means large dragons can survive on as few as 12 meals a year.

*Komodo dragons generally avoid encounters with humans. If cornered, they may react aggressively by hissing and swinging their tail. If disturbed further, they may attack and bite. Attacks on humans are rare – spanning the 38-year stretch from 1974 – 2012, there were 24 reported attacks, five of them fatal. Most of the victims were local villagers.

Rangers carry forked poles – just in case!!!

*Dragons are solitary creatures – coming together to breed. Mating occurs between May and August…

What’s going on here, lads!

…..with an average of 20 eggs laid in September in camouflaged nests/holes (to prevent other dragons from eating the eggs).  Females can also give birth via parthenogenesis, producing a litter of dragons without the help of a male.

*Hatchlings are born quite defenseless and spend much of their first few years in trees where they are relatively safe from predators. Predators include their own species alas as the juveniles make up 10% of the cannibalistic adults’ diets!

*The main threats to the Dragons come from poaching, tourism and volcanic activity. Climate change is viewed as a major future danger – dragons do not inhabit the higher altitude regions of their island so aridification and sea level rise will affect their low-lying habitats.

After a morning excursion to Komodo or Rinca Island, the rest of the day is spent at leisure before returning to Labuan Bajo in the evening. Activities include swimming / snorkelling and hiking.

Komodo National Park is famous for its beautiful pink beaches – created by fragments of red coral mixed with white sand…..

….and turquoise waters…

Snorkelling options vary between beach and boat and locations change, depending on weather conditions on a particular day.

You don’t even have to snorkel – the water is SO clear….

…..sting rays in the shallow waters……

The scenery is stunning and there’s plenty to look at from the boat…

Packed lunches are brought along on board and enjoyed on one of the beaches – chicken, veg, rice, prawn crackers, fruit – washed down with fresh coconut water!

Padar Island

Padar Island is included in most itineraries.The early morning hike to the summit takes 30-40 minutes and is worth it for the views. Unfortunately for us, weather conditions weren’t great on the morning of our scheduled visit and the harbour master stopped all boats from visiting. We didn’t have another opportunity so missed out on the climb…

What we missed – Padar Island -( 20250822 09342664 – Wikimedia)

Sunsets

Not bad!!!

Flying Foxes

At sunset, thousands of Flying Foxes emerge from the mangrove forests of Kalong Island as they head off on their night’s hunting. Boats anchor offshore and visitors watch the stream of bats pass overhead…

Attribution Charles J Sharp, Wikimedia – a better photo than any of my own!

Homeward bound at the end of a long day – by the light of the silvery moon…

Labuan Bajo

The town is mainly used as a base for visiting the National Park with dozens of tour company offices lining the main street and beyond. There are some nice restaurants and coffee shops but very few stores and fewer attractions – a brief walkabout will suffice.

Local Population and Tourism Dependence

An estimated 3,200 indigenous residents live in settlements within the Park. Historically reliant on fishing, nowadays a large part of the economy is dependent on tourism.

More than 16,800 people in the broader region work as boat operators, tour guides, hospitality staff and souvenir vendors -all tied directly to the park’s visitors.

A few things to consider…

A lot of time is spent on boats – Just getting to and from the islands takes 90 mins each way by speed boat. Waters are NOT always calm!

Then there’s the scrambling on and off the boat – fine on a beach, but, back in harbour, you might find yourself moored alongside 4 or five boats and have to pass through them all to reach the jetty.

Itineraries (including our own) change frequently, depending on weather and sea conditions.

Rinca Island is less visited and offers longer trails so should definitely be included in your schedule.

Dragons can be seen year-round, but may be less visible in mating season (July – August). Having said that, we visited in late July and saw 10 on Komodo Island and 8 the following day on Rinca…. .